Stain for cedar shafts

[matt_w]

I am switching over from carbons to woods on my longbow I just finished building and am wondering what type of stain you guys use on your cedar shafts? I have 3 that I just picked up from the store and 3 others I had around the house and I haven't really found one that I like yet. A few are too red and a few didnt really change the color much. The cedar doesn't seem to take stain real well. I didn't sand the shafts yet so that probably isn't helping. Are there any stains that you guys really like to use on your cedar shafts? What brand and colors are you guys using? I will be sealing them with profin after staining so I think any stain will be compatible.
Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Pine]

I like Minwax ipwitch pine , it is a nice blond color . I have also dabbed on mahogany in blotches , let it set for about 5 min. and then do the ipwitch over that . the effect is kinda like a cammo color blending from light to dark . But that is just an idea . with so many stains out there you should find something that will catch your eye .

I use brown paint, wipe it on, let set for a few minutes and then wipe it off and let it dry. Then apply the poly over coat.

[Dave Pagel]

I use the Stalker stains from Lost Nation archery.  Good selection, good service.

D.P.

[Green]

Cedar takes stain very well, but you'll want to sand first, I like the fine 3M pads.  I use alcohol based stains.  I mix my own from various colors of Rit powdered dyes and denatured alcohol, or use Fiebing's leather dye.  Fiebing's tan gives a nice warm hue to a shaft without making it impossible to find if you're stump shooting or miss your intended target.  

Good luck, making and shooting woods are at the heart of this sport.

[Kris]

I use Transtint diluted with alcohol now, because I use it for my selfbows, but really, the sky is the limit.

Anything that would alter the color of wood could be a stain i.e. blood, iron, walnut shells, dirt, coffee, flower pedals, etc.  I have never used these and being a little obnoxious but I could imagine just about anything.  Native peoples certainly used such techniques.  

Anything commercial is fine, some have better properties as a initial sealant and filler, somewhat; I would seek these qualities and of course, the color(s) that appeals to you.  

*** Most importantly make sure your stain is compatible with your chosen sealant.  

Kris

[Scott E]

I use the water based stain from 3 rivers. It's a leather dye. I seal with wipe on poly.

[Zradix]

minwax oil based for most.
If strong bright colors are wanted I'll use alcohol based.

[rraming]

I use aniline dyes and water based stain from Woodcraft woodworking supply. The premixed stuff is safer to use than the aniline powder.

[matt_w]

Thanks for all the replies. Greatly appreciated.

[Fletcher]

The regular oil base stains like Minwax, Olympic or Zar will bring out the grain in wood.  The alcohol and water base dyes offer some brighter colors but color the wood more evenly so the grain doesn't show much.  I much prefer the oil stains, but that is just me.

[Jon Kaw]

Another vote for Minwax. I like the Golden Oak stain.  Then I coat with wipe on poly.

[J. Holden]

I've gone with Minwax also, antique walnut.  Wipe it on, about 4-6 coats.  Time consumming but oh so pretty when you're finished.

-Jeremy  

[Hud]

I would add Rite dye packs, but the lighter colors tend to be too light. You can mix if your good with colors. Use 70% Alcohol. Test and keep in a pickle or canning jar. Water based will bleed through a clear finish or other colors, so try alcohol. It also takes less dye in the alcohol. Clear coat over the stained shaft, before crown dip, or cresting.

[britt]

I like to use leather dye. Comes in many colors. The black looks really sweet.

[Dave Worden]

I noticed at Compton's that Larry at Lost Nation had a bunch of stains on sale.  You may want to contact him.