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What broadhead sharpens easy?

Started by Gooserbat, September 15, 2014, 12:27:00 PM

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Tim Finley

Old Bear Razorheads are easy to sharpen and you have the option of using the bleeder for better blood trails . Lots of them for sale..

Hud

If you can't keep the Z's sharp, either the bevel is off, or they might be dulled in a quiver, handling etc.  To solve the bevel, try a wheel sharpener like a Rada. Soft touch, keeps a consistent bevel.
TGMM Family of the Bow

Gooserbat

I think I'll bite the bullet and get some Stos.
"Four fletch white feathers and 600 grains is a beautiful thing."

Don Stokes

What bigbadjon said. Quick to sharpen, quick to dull. And like Bill Carlsen, I prefer 3 blades partly because they sharpen easily for me. Then there's the big holes...
Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.- Ben Franklin

CHENRYIV

QuoteOriginally posted by KentuckyTJ:
Single bevel Grizzly's are the easiest ones I've ever tried to sharpen. That is using a KME.
I've got to agree.  The angle that Bill has on these, makes them super easy..
The archer sees the mark upon the path of the infinite, and he bends with his might that his >>--> may go swift and far.

Traditional Bowhunters of Georgia
Compton Traditional Bowhunters
Professional Bowhunters Society

Bullfrog 1


joe skipp

Once I was taught how to properly sharpen heads, I found Magnus was the easiest followed by Zwickey and Snuffer. 10 mil file, stropping leather does a great job. For touch up in the field, hard to beat the Rada Wheel sharpener.

For those who are having difficulties, I highly recommend Ronnie's KME. From single bevel to double bevel the edge is scary sharp.
"Neal...is this heaven?" "No Piute but we are dam close". Top of the Mtn in Medicine Bow Nat Forest.

Kris

Have to disagree with you, Zwickey's (& Magnus) are the EASIEST head to sharpen, in particular the Deltas because of their straight edge.  

They usually come slightly concave, some more than others, and that is dependent upon where the grinder was in its wear or adjustment schedule during the sharpening process.  I straighten the edge so it is perfectly straight or flat to a true surface.

Always use a NEW (or new-ish) Mill Bastard file, that makes a HUGE difference.  Maintain the integrity of your files and always cycle through older ones; retain those for shovels and axes.

I C-clamp the file on my bench with it sticking out into my shop, suspended. I run the head on a shaft, the length of the file pushing from tip to toe, parallel to the edge, maintaining the angle with just my hand.  This takes some practice & skill.  As others say, raise that burr, then remove it!  I also hone mine on wet/dry paper on a marble slab used for sharpening plane blades and a paper wheel w/rouge on my grinder.  

My arms are bare of hair right now...it blows off with the touch of a blade!

Kris


Red Beastmaster

Zwickey and Magnus are all I've used for 25 years so I don't really know too much about other heads. I get them very sharp with Tru-Angle files and a leather strop.
There is no great fun, satisfaction, or joy derived from doing something that's easy.  Coach John Wooden

jonsimoneau

How much weight do you need to add? One trick that works well is to take some bird shot out of a shotgun shell. Melt it down and drop it in the bottom of the ferrel. I do this all the time. You can add 20 grains or more this way. It works like a charm

NWoklahomajacob

Vpa 3 blades are so easy even I can do it. File, jewel stick- sharp as sharp can be. Andy ivy has a good video showing how on youtube.
>---->

old_goat2

I think the easiest for me so far is just about any two blade that's made from regular steel not stainless. I use a Magnus All-Sharp and a two sided leather strop with jewelers rouge of two different grits. A stainless head isn't much tougher though.

David Achatz
CPO USN Ret.
Various bows, but if you see me shooting, it's probably a Toelke in my hand!


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