Took the plunge and ordered my bow today..

[Riverrat43]

...and I need help choosing arrows. I ordered a Samick Phantom 40# pull. ( RH) I also got a Flemish Fast flight string coming with it. I spend an hour or so this morning in a local archery shop testing poundages and settled on the 40 as something I can shoot a lot each day and not be worn out. I also believe it is enough bow to take whitetails with. I was shooting a Bear Super Grizzly that I couldn't afford but I sure did enjoy it. My draw length in 29.5. I was drawing the Bear back to "the wall" and anchoring at the corner of my mouth. The archery guru in the shop said I was probably pulling about 44# in all. That's fine. I want to shoot cedar but I'm not sure what I need lengthwise or spine wise. I'm guessing about a 40-45 spine? Maybe 31 inches or even FL? The guy in the shop wasn't into trad archery very big. Didn't have cedar arrows. I'm more into accurate, quiet and having a lot of energy than I am speed. I'm thinking of hunting deer with something like a 150 gr broad head such as the Simmons Shark series. Hope you guys can point me in the right direction. I wouldn't even mind shooting aluminum practice arrows if I knew  what size to get.

[PaulDeadringer29]

If you're pulling 29.5" and the bow you ordered is 40@28, then you might be pulling 45# at your draw length. I've never shot wooden arrows and am not sure what to suggest, but with aluminum, you'll be in the ballpark with a 1916 or 2016. Personally, I would start with aluminum as they are really easy to tune. But like I say, I have zero experience with wood. 45# is plenty for whitetails, more important is a well placed broad head on the appropriate arrow. You may also find your draw length lengthens over time, as you really figure out how to pull that bow back. Mine started right under 28" and has lengthened almost an inch over time. Good luck and have fun.

[slowbowjoe]

For a 30.5" arrow (BOP), 44-45#s at 29.5", recurve with FF string, and around a 150grn. point, I'd guess 55-60 or  60-65 spine. Around 60lb.
Don't know the bow though, I'm figuring what might work assuming it's cut to center. Others more knowledgeable should be around soon to help.

[Riverrat43]

Thanks so much for the advice. Getting a starting point is a huge help.

[slowbowjoe]

Oops… I meant 60-65 or maybe 65-70's. Thinking around 65 or so. Should get you close.

[dbd870]

Interesting Paul, I started out at 29" and a year later I'm drawing 28.5"; wonder if that's because I switched from a wheel bow? I started with aluminum and I have been happy with them. Shooting an early 70's Grizzly and I'm pulling 46-47#, using 1916's and they fly just fine.

[PaulDeadringer29]

Dave, I always would have my compound bows set at 28.5". Could have went a little longer, but wanted to comfortably shoot the bow with cold weather clothes on. Now, when I said draw length getting longer, I meant with a trad bow. When I first started shooting, I would just pull close to the corner of my mouth...constantly drawing under 28". Wanting to become more accurate, I played around with anchors, learning to get my back into the draw, and trying to come to full expansion before release. I basically went from snap shooting a 50# bow to drawing, hitting two anchors, holding full draw and aiming for 2-3 seconds before release. My bows are also in the 56-60 range now too. I don't mean to derail the OP question, just wanted to explain a little better...which is, find a shooting style that works, fine tune it, and your DL may lengthen.

[Wheels2]

If you are looking into cedars you can get a test pak of different spines from 3rivers or Rocky Mountain Specialty.  Call either or both and ask them for advice.  I get great service from both.

[David Mitchell]

I shoot all sorts of arrows.....not really the best for my shooting but I just can't limit myself to one type of bow or one arrow material.  Been shooting wood a long time. If you are drawing 29 1/2", you will need to go at least with a 30 1/2" arrow to begin with since you lose 1" in the tapering process for the point.  Full length wood arrows come 31" so by the time you put the point taper on you are at 30" back of the point and that's where you need to be any way to allow a bit of space when you are pulling broadheads back so they don't bump your shelf.  The general rule of thumb among us old timers is that you need to add 5# of spine weight for every inch over 28" that you leave your arrow, also add another 5# of spine for the broadhead because they make the arrow a bit longer than field points and that further weakens the dynamic spine when they are shot. So at your draw you are now at a shaft that is rated at 60# for the weight you will be getting with your bow and draw length.  Recurves are pretty forgiving on spine I have found so I would suggest you start with shafts in the 60-65# spine or even 65-70 as slowbowjoe suggested.  Wood arrows spines assume a standard length of 28" for the arrow, so if you use a full length shaft you automatically reduce the dynamic spine at your draw.  I would suggest a test kit with spines as suggested. Everybody who shoots traditional bows should at least give wood a try--you may not want to stick with it but they are where traditional archery started.  The very first arrows were no doubt made of wood and wood arrows have been killing animals for ages.  They do work!    

[Riverrat43]

Great advice on the test kits. Thanks. Will call them Monday.

[Riverrat43]

Just went ahead and ordered test kit "B" and a field tip test kit along with a 11/32 taper tool. Might as well get the ball rolling.

[David Mitchell]

Now the fun begins.   :D

[slowbowjoe]

Let us know what you come up with!