bare shaft tuning

[Stringpuller#1]

my bare shafts are landing to the left of my fletched arrows. From what I read that means my shafts are too stiff. How can I adjust for this only by using string twists, to change my brace height?

[bigbadjon]

You raise the brace height to bring them to the right, which sounds like the opposite but is not. I will tell you this is not the best way to tune your arrows and you should probably look into lower spined arrows.

[McDave]

Some fine tuning of dynamic arrow spine can be done by changing the brace height of the bow.  If your bare shaft is showing slightly stiff, you can try adding twists to raise the brace height.  Make sure you stay within the bowyer's recommended brace height ranges.  I believe you will find that the effect of brace height on dynamic arrow spine is minimal.  This should only be done after getting the spine as close as possible by adjusting point weight, shaft length, or trying a different shaft.  Subtle adjustments to dynamic spine can also be made by using different, or no, string silencers, and adjusting the location of the string silencers on the string.

[Looper]

What they said.  At what distance were you shooting? At 20 yards, a 50 grain increase in point weight should move the impact point of your bare shafts about 6" to the right (assuming you're right handed).

[Stringpuller#1]

My bare shafts are landing maybe three inches to the left of the fletched arrow. I have six Easton Axis Traditionals all cut to 30" with 75 grain inserts and 170gr field points. I cant afford new arrows and dont want to risk chopping on these. Because they aren't super far off the mark I could adjust the other variables around the arrow. I'm standing about 12 yards away to test

[Looper]

Cutting them shorter will make them stiffer. You need them weaker. You need to add some point weight. Twelve yards is a little close to really tell. Back up to twenty and shoot about 12 shots each with a fletched and a bare shaft. Do you have any 200 and 225 grain points?

[Stringpuller#1]

No I don't have heavier point weight right now but I suppose I need to order some.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Adjust your point weight.... Every bow has an optimum brace height. Once that has been determined leave it there and tune your shafts or strike plate. Adjusting your brace to tune arrows is not the way it should be done from a bowyers perspective.... If you can thin down your strike plate material, that will bring it back over to the right.....

[Stump73]

Heavier weight.

[Friend]

Side plate material have their own contributions.

Estimate Only:

Horizontal adjustment referance for fletched shafts at ~20 yards

....Martin pad (softest)
 
....Velcro( medium) – moves arrow left an approx. 4 more inches than Martin Pad

....Leather( harder) – moves arrow left an approx. 4 more inches than Velcro

....Micro adjustments – layer with two sided carpet tape

Note: I prefer to modify my arrow design first to attain excellent flight. Have on a few occassions successfully implemented side plate material exchanges when backed into a corner.

[Bill Carlsen]

You can do two things. One is raising brace height, as already described. The other is to try a heavier point. I would do these two things before I invested in new shafts.

[overbo]

Also, if your arrow is hitting 3'' off at 12yrds. At 20yrds, you'll be lucky to hit a 3'x3' target. IMO, you should strive for good bare shaft flight to at least 20yrds.

[jackdaw]

tried bare shaft tuning for the first time earlier this year. It is amazing when you hit the weight just right combined with the proper arrow length. It would almost make you wonder why you would ever shoot a feather at all!  At least as far is field points are concerned! pretty amazing once you achieve perfect flight...the information these guys are giving you a spot on....good luck!