arrows hitting tail right

[Bladepeek]

I also question the statement that calculators are only for compounds.

If all the arrows are hitting nock right, that would normally indicate a stiff arrow. If I put the specs in for a 28" 1535, and a Samick Sage that is 45# @ 28", but drawn only 26", then it looks like it would take a 200 gr point to be close. I used a 26" draw in the example because the person who started the post said he used the "clothespin method" and then added an inch. Why add the inch? And most of us do draw a little longer when demonstrating only our draw and not actually shooting, so I poked in 26".

I would bet if we had a really good draw measurement, good center cut information, to include the strike plate thickness and actual draw weight at either the specified 28" or at the actual draw length, Stu's calculator (and I think 3 Rivers calculator was derived from that) would be very, very close.

[doublearrow]

Thanks again for the help everyone. I added the inch on the clothes pin method because every tuning guide i could find that talked about this said to add an inch ao a broadhead would clear any gloves or fingers should they be in the way. Strike plate is .050".

[Ray Hammond]

Cutting carbon arrows unless they are WEAK is a mistake. I don't want to reduce arrow weight with carbon shafts...they're already light.....there's absolutely no benefit to cutting shafts short with respect to momentum, penetration, efficiency etc.  

If you order them cut you are not doing yourself a favor.

[Bladepeek]

Doublearrow, I'm sorry I mis-understood. I see you added an inch to the arrow length. I thought you added an inch to your draw length. I still think your arrows are short at 28".

[BigJim]

Go ahead and use the calculator if it works for you. The calculator is certainly more accurate than a chart that doesn't ask enough questions.

I get many phone calls weekly from people needing help tuning their bows and frequently these people are frustrated with their set up previously suggested from a calculator and just about every time from a chart.
A couple weeks ago, I had a (probably ex) customer tell me how wrong I was because he new how to tune a bow and he went off the 3r arrow chart. He even sent me a text of a picture of the chart with the suggestion circled (the words included with the chart was just for educational purposes).
He went as far as to claim that he contacted 3r, black widow and ArrowDynamics to prove I was wrong. The chart suggested that from his samic sage which is 37lb at his 27" draw he should be shooting  a 29" 3555. The shafts I sold him had to be screwed up because they showed weak.

This was a perfect example of the chart being wrong and false tuning info (likely bouncing of the side plate due to being so stiff) but the chart had the customer so convinced that he felt he had to lie to me about contacting the above mentioned (they would never suggest the 3555 being ok for his set up). He felt compelled to suggest I look to God for help.

I seldom ever tell a customer "this is exactly what you need" as they are usually unsure of at least one necessary item in their specs. I will get them in the correct spine category and we can work together from there.

Hey, if it works for you, fire away. As I said, they are great for my business.
BigJim

[Bladepeek]

BigJim, I don't think we are that far apart on our recommendations. I put in the information I was able to pick out of the OP and the calculator said 1535s, but longer than 28". I believe you said the same.

I'm not a "blindly follow the instructions" guy, but I have found the calculators, IF GIVEN CORRECT AND COMPLETE information, will come surprisingly close most of the time. The problem comes when people put in estimates based on what they were told or what they think sounds "about right" instead of actual measurement.

What you can do with years of experience, I have to use a calculator for, but both methods do work. They provide a solid starting point.