Nock high no matter what

[McDave]

I agree with getting rid of the no-nock.  I think that might be throwing you off.  I don't know how easy it is to take the weight off your bottom finger when you shoot with a no-nock, since I've never tried one other than in kids' classes I teach.  But you need to get some weight off your bottom finger.

I think you can tune the 5575's to work, if you like a lot of point weight.  You're drawing 29", so your arrows are probably 30" or more, which calls for a stiffer spined arrow.

You say you can see the arrow bouncing off the shelf.  That sort of messes up everything, perhaps even your spine indication.  You have to solve that first.  I agree that if you have to go higher than 1" nock height to solve that, something else is wrong.  Possibly getting rid of the no-nock and raising your shelf height will help.  Probably has something to do with the tiller of your bow, and raising the shelf height should help if your bow has too positive a tiller to be shot 3 (or 2) under.

[highPlains]

Have you checked the tiller? Sometimes with bows that you cannot get the nock height correct an elevated rest can resolve the issue. Grip pressure, as mentioned, can also be the culprit.

[Steve O]

Originally posted by Jack Denbow:
I got this info from a wise old sage who is no longer with us. During paradox the back end of your bare shaft is bouncing of the shelf. If you build up your arrow shelf about 1/8" and no wider than the arrow (important) your problem will go away.
Jack

Jack is a wise old sage himself. That is double nought old sages...I've solved the same issue for a number of friends with a $1.99 stick on rest. Same thing but a lot quicker if you just want to check it out. Adjust your nock point accordingly.

I'd listen to Jack, he doesn't post much, but when he does it is money in the bank    

[njloco]

Good video !

[Mint]

After plugging your info into Stu millers Dynamic Spine Calculator and using 32"'s as your shaft length since you said they are full length shafts it calculates that your arrows are way UNDER SPINED. Even if the shafts are 30" long your are under spined. try a lighter point weight until you get good flight.

[wasapt]

use a tie on or brass nocking point both above and below your nock. that will stop your nock high problem

[jmar595]

Benbow, those are good videos. I tried shooting the bow both ways and they still shot nock high. I also tried shooting split and three under, still nock high. I then tried adjusting the nock point very minutely and I started around 1" then moved down.
  I adjusted the arrows also. They are around 600 grains. I dont have a grain scale right now, using a kitchen scale, they are 40 grams. They are GT Traditional 5575 full length with a 50gr weight behind the insert and a 225gr point. The FOC is around 19%. I want to stick with the heavier 5575 so that I can put more weight up front. I have been doing a lot of reading Dr. Ashby and a higher FOC makes a lot of sense.
  After adjusting the nock point and arrows, I have them flying fairly good, the nock high is still eluding me a little. I build up the side plate and shelf a bit as suggested and it helped a bit. I'll just have to keep tweeking things until I get it right. Hopefully I can get it all ironed out by turkey season. The shoot is this weekend, I think I have them flying straight enough for that.
  I tried gloves and tabs, they just aren't right for me. I have one nock point with a no glove under it, the arrow cant slip down, the no glove is like a bottom nock point.
 The spine calculator may state that it weak but it flies good left to right. ??

[M60gunner]

I know A person that shoots two under. But he only shoots 30#. IMO you are torkqing the string to compensate for the missing finger. Also your bow is not that long, you draw lenght maybe causing your fingers to pinch the nock even with that rubber thing.
I would put off that shoot until you have practiced at more than 20 yards with those heavy arrows. It would ruin your day to lose or break new arrows.

[AkDan]

I still believe it has more to do with tiller and hand pressure than spine after reading this thread. Thinking exactly like Ben though I had hard time seeing his illustration in those two videos I get what he's after.  

How much heel do  you have when you shoot this bow?  And when you say you're straight wristing it, is the meaty part of you hand touching at all?  It can be hard to do on some grips.  If straight wrist isn't working, try heeling the snot out of it and see how it reacts.   Force the bottom limb to bend more for illustrative purposes.  There's a reason the tiller for 3 under and split is different.

Take a kids fiberglass bow, and shoot with a hard heel down position, vs normal vs a straight wrist (Asbell style) and you'll see a  difference in  how your arrow reacts based on how much you put into heeling it.  

I had this very issue with a Robertson longbow..I ended up selling it.  I couldn't get used to using that much heel into a bow.  No form of nock point change would fix it.   And it had zilch to do with spine!

[Sixby]

Too much weight up front IMHO.
I would bet that if you tried 160 gr heads or even 140s you would be getting level flight.
God bless, Steve

[monterey]

Your bow was probably tillered for a split finger release.  Might try shooting that way.

[jmar595]

I tried shooting with different finger positions with a glove and with a tab. No matter what I tried I could not get the nock high out. I had a bareshaft Easton Axis 500 I tried that with a 225gr point and it shot like a dart. Straight as can be. Tried messing with the GT a bit more, but shot the Axis with them, it was consistently straight.
  I went to a 3D shoot last weekend and took the Axis with me along with the GT and shot it at some longer distances, super straight.
  So, I got 6 Axis now that I will use, they are Axis 500 with a 225gr point, they are 515gr. Finally, money!
  Thank everyone for the suggestions and input, this has been a educating journey and all the input has been very helpful. I did build out the plate and build it up over the deepest grip area.

[BenBow]

Glad you got something to work. If the bow is the one in your avatar you can see from this picture the bottom limb is overstressed. The smaller diameter shaft possibly gives a high enough nock height to clear the shelf. Short bows are tough to shoot because it doesn't take much to mess up the limb timing. Enjoy your good shooting combination and way to hang in there to get it to work for you.
   

[jmar595]

Wow, I have not seen that before. That picture was taken years ago. I will have to check that out again to see if it has changed. That makes a lot of sense though why it tends to do what it does. Thanks Benbow, good stuff!