Personally, I despise bare shaft tuning especially for woodies. I have broken many a shaft attempting to play with different lengths and spines to find a combination best suited for my bow, or spine changes once I fletch them, crest them or what have you (adding feathers, crestings, finishes etc. adds weight to the front end of the shaft which stiffens the arrow) so that I need to make a slight change in weight up front.
If your arrow flight with the .400s is consistently going left then yes, that is an indication of a overly stiff spine, therefore you should either increase arrow length, or increase tip weight.
In my case I am shooting a CTA Red Stag longbow 64" and 57# @ 28. I have a draw of 27" and I am shooting GT Traditional Only .400 shafts cut to 28.5" with a 100 grain brass inserts and 145 grain points; so 245 grains up front.
The arrows fly perfect, and I have received compliments on how fast my bow is and how good my arrows shoot. I did a lot of tweaking with this set up.
I bought the test kit from 3rivers which has point weights from 100 to 250 grains. And just started playing with different weights up front until I saw that I needed the heaviest tip (250), since I couldn't find a broadhead heavy enough that I liked, I opted for the 100 grain brass inserts and that opened the door for numerous options for broadheads.
Chances are if you are needing that much weight up front to bring the spine down with the .400s so that it still shoots stiff, then moving down in static spine by one step is not a huge enough leap to have to worry about the shafts being too weak. I would say try it. However if you are still planning on putting the 245 grains up front with the .500s then yes the shafts probably will be weak. So I would start off with 100 grains up front, and then tweak from there.