Easton arrow advise

[Steve G]

Ok I read older threads about popular choice in the 45-50 lbs range, but does a longer draw change things?  I shoot center cut Longbow & recurve and draw an honest 29" Do I need 1916's or move up? How about 1918? Thanks

[Scott Smith]

What is your point weight,arrow length and
string material. I'm guessing a 2016's or
2018 would fit the bill. I'm assuming fast
flight string and 125 point with a 30" arrow.

[Steve G]

Well I actually shoot Gold tip trad's 3555 with 175 tips, I have 28 year old 2018's and try anything from 125 thru175 and they fishtail more than the carbons and drop off quicker, I'm looking at 1916 & 1918 on e-bay and nit sure what to do.

[Steve G]

And yes I'm fast flight with 30" arrows but aalso shoot vintage Bear bows and would like to use the same arrows if possible

[vermonster13]

What is the actual weight at your draw?

[Scott Smith]

I'm guessing here but I would think you could
make them work. The point weight might be the
the key. Have you bare shafted through paper?
If your under spined build out your strike plate
a little stick a toothpick under the strike plate.

[Steve G]

Main bow 44# 28 I draw 29.....that's a longbow Stewert Slammer other is 46# Ancient Spirit Kadiak, alos vintage bows from 37#-45#

[Steve G]

No I haven't bare shafted just cut arrows to 30 or 30.5 and try different weight tips so far.

[vermonster13]

If you want to use 125 points, the 1916s are your best bet.

[Steve G]

How different are the 1918 I have options to buy either.

[vermonster13]

About 5#s stiffer.

[Steve G]

Thanks

[longbowguy]

Steve:
I disagree with the above. I think you will need a stiffer shaft for your set up. I would go at least to the 1918 and you may well need light points in that. Your modern bows, longer than AMO arrow length and one inch longer than AMO draw length all contribute to the need for more spine. I think 2114 or 2020 might be best. Your old Bear bows might well shoot whatever you settle on with points a step or two heavier.

Before spending on light shafts I would work more with those 2018s and your lightest points. I suspect they are a bit under spined for you. Try short drawing them by an inch and see if the fly better. And kindly let us know how it works out.

[longbowguy]

Further, try the 2018s with the lightest points in your vintage bows with their dacron strings. My hunch is that they will tune in those old bows, indicating that you need more spine in the modern ones.

[rustyspike]

Steve,

The longer the arrow the more flexable it becomes. The more wieght in the pont the more flexable it becomes. With your 29" pull your arrows will be in the 30" + range.

IMO 1916's will be to week of a spine @ 30" with 125 grain point on a 45# to 50# bow. I am using 1916's cut to 27.25" on a 45# Fox breed.  

Try the 2016's. Try starting at 31" and then cuting them down till you get the right spine.

Rich K

[Steve G]

Thanks to all, will try advise today.

[Shawn Leonard]

I say a 2016 cut to 30.5"s out of the curve will be fine, now the LB it will be a bit different. I think a 1916 cut to 30"s will fly well out of that, this is with 125 grain point on both arrows. Shawn

[Steve G]

Ok today I replaced my 145-175 field tips with 125 on my 2018's xx75 cuy to 30" and shot them out of a 58" Grizzly @ 42# 29" draw and they flew great! All I see is feathers and nocks no shaft fishtailing! They Shot equally well out of a 45# Grizzly dogleg 62", as well as 46# Ancient Spirit recurve, I got whipping out of a 37# Wing Gull 64"  I also swapped my 175 field pts out of some Gold Tip Trads "My standard arrow for most bows" with 125 and they flew great...super straight.  Some 1916 and 1918 are on e bay right now would the 1916 be best for the lighter Gull? How about the 1918 instead of the 2018? Or if I get the 1918 what tip would bring them close to the 2018 performance?  Thanks