wood arrows

[Gooserbat]

OK I know next to nothing about wood, but I think I would like to try them.  A little about my set up TallTines 55@30 and I pull a bit over 30, not much but just a bit.  I would like to shoot between a 125-160 head. I guess the first thing I want to know is what is a good place to start on spine?  Second what's a good easy way to stain and seal without buying a lot of special tools.

[ausjim]

Gooserbat,

More experienced heads than mine can help you with spine selection, although I went through the process myself recently with a 190grain head in mind. I got a test kit with shafts starting matched to my bow (55 for 55# bow) and shafts for every 5# deviation above, up to 70#. I ended up settling on the 70, put in a big order and turned the rest into flu flus.

I also played with a bunch of sealing methods, dipping, spraying and wipe on poly's. For doing a dozen or less arrows at a time, wipe-on is the way forward mate. You just need a rag (I used an old cut up shirt) some kind of line to hang the shafts on to dry, and some old clothes pegs to hold them on the line. Including the wipe-on poly you're looking at about 15-20 bucks to get yourself set up  

All the best,

Jim

[Jim Wright]

For your described set-up I would try 80-85 lb. spine range. I second Jim's suggestion of MinWax wipe-on Poly, it is easy to use and if you experience "target burn" on the front of your shafts you can wipe on more sealer, it blends in easily. Initially, lightly sand your raw shafts with 220 grit wet-dry sandpaper, wipe clean and wipe on a coat of Poly, let dry 12-24 hours and wipe on a fresh coat. Repeat for 4-5 coats. Lots of good shaft suppliers but you will find none better than Surewood Douglas Fir.

[Orion]

Might want to try a test kit starting at 70-75.  80-85 will probably work, as Jim says, but may be able to use something a little lighter, particularly if you use 23/64 shafts instead of 11/32.  

I second Surewoods.  I believe their standard shafts are 32 inches long so you should still have enough arrow length after cutting the nock and point tapers.

[Stickbow]

If you are gluing directly to the poly what type of glue are you using?

[M60gunner]

Ducco, can be found at craft stores and home stores like ACE. HD, and Wally World do not have it here anymore.
You could also use fletch tape. I use Saunders NPV glue because it also works on my alum and carbons.

[Stickbow]

Thanks

[dhaverstick]

Duco Cement is awesome stuff. I can't find it locally anymore but there are a lot of good deals on Amazon for it.

Darren

[Stickbow]

I picked some up this am at an ACE hardware

[MO Bow]

Definitely start with a test kit.  Find a kit or ask for shafts up to 90#.  I shoot a recurve 52@28 and I'm dialed in at 72# shafts...29.75" from BOP to vallet of nock and use 125gn heads.  

Depending on form, you'd be surprised how heavy of a spine you need with that draw length that you have.

As far as stain and seal...wipe on stain is simple...so is wipe on poly.  Cheap.

I use wipe on Minwax and seal with Daly's ProFin.  ProFin is pretty expensive...especially if you have to get it shipped, but worth it in my opinion.  I use a dip tube...dip, let dry for 24hrs and use 3 coats.

Duco works great on ProFin.  I use fletch tape and never had a problem.