It makes a difference what kind of broadheads are in your quiver and if they are all the same, but I stack my broadheads in very carefully so things don't cross in the quiver, shift around or spin on the points. I make sure that all of the nock indexes are set so I can feel them with my thumb. If you want to make a lot of noise when jerking out an arrow toss in some four blade Herters, Deadheads, and two judo points. Those judo points will empty your quiver in no time. I know longbow shooters are suppose to like three to one heads, but for silent riding in the quiver and quiet extraction, Zwicky Eskimos are best. If you have broadheads with holes like Hill broadheads, they should all be Hill heads or all Deadheads or all Herters. Mixing up heads of different lengths can cause blade tangles. Also, keep your arrows as short as you need. Extra long arrows require a grab down at the top of the quiver and additional motions. When hunting deer and pheasants are in season, (in your case grouse) when still hunting have an arrow on the string that will do both jobs and your not so in love with it that you won't launch it at the pheasant. I call that arrow my shoot away. If I see the pheasant or rabbit first, I will switch to an old junker that is in the the top. It is possible to very carefully put an Escimo broadhead or two up top and not cut the divider. However, heads like Hill will snag the lace coming out if they are stored above the lace, while the back side slope of the Zwicky will slide by. On that note, I have never snagged the leather lace in the bottom drawing out of the main compartment or cut it with a broadhead.
I missed my pass through Eveleth this year, my wife developed a heel spur that forced us to cancel our canoe trip, maybe late August or early September.