new to traditional archery but not archery

[bowhuntercook]

new to the forum and new to the traditional archery though I played around with it as youngest I have put away the training wheels and picked up a stikbow made by good friend in my home town of Portland Indiana rich emery 58" recurve pulling 48# 28" though im pulling a 29" draw my question is im getting some goldtip 55-75 hunter shafts cut down to 30 inches with 50 grain brass insert and 5" feathers im looking at roughly 480-505 grain including broadhead the broadhead choices ive picked are the land shark 165 gr and the treeshark 190 with the treeshark im looking at 505 grains total and 480 grains total for the land shark what would be my foc % and which broadhead would be best for my setup for hunting deer thanks -cook

[Michael Arnette]

Have you looked into Centaur big game heads? They might be just the ticket:
 http://www.centaurarchery.com/accessories.htm#broadheads

[Stump73]

Welcome

[Scott E]

I would go with the land shark between those two.

You will have to sharpen the land shark.

I would recommend not buying broadheads until you bareshaft your setup. Get a bunch of different weight field points and see what tunes the best and then spend money on broadheads. There is going to be difference in tune between 165 grains and 190 grains.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Typically, I worry about arrow flight more than weight. Usually by the time I get my arrows flying good, they are already within a reasonable weight for the bow.

Plenty of great Broadheads out there to choose from. The land sharks and tree sharks have killed a lot of critters.

Welcome to Trad Gang    

[Terry Lightle]

Welcome,now enjoy!
Terry

[IndaTimber]

Welcome and enjoy the journey.  

As you are well aware, any sharp broadhead is going to be effective and either of the ones you mention will be plenty for deer.  Understanding part of your question was concering the total weight, I doubt 25 grains will make too much of a difference either way but I'd opt for the heavier head if it suits you.

Take Care,

[northener]

Good advice-------Tune arrow first to get perfect arrow flight. A little effort but well worth the price.

Lot of good info out there on tuning

[KentuckyTJ]

Welcome from Kentucky!

[mark Willoughby]

Welcome brother       I personally like the treesharks

[Producer]

If both arrows fly good I would go with the 505 grain combo as you are shooting a bow that will be 50lbs give or take a pound. I think and arrow that equals 10 grains per pound is better for your bow and will be more efficent.

[maineac]

Welcome.  This is the place for good information.  Take time to tune your arrows and find what works best for your bow.  I have found carbons to have a fairly wide tolerance for tip weight.  However making sure they are tuned well to stat is crucial. When I started the process years ago someone here recommended this site.  I found it very helpful, you might as well.

 http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

Welcome,there is a simple and subtle eloquence to Rich Emery's bows.  My only point about your broadhead choice would be to choose the one with the correct weight.  They are both deadly, but do your home work on the best way to sharpen them for you. Concave edges can prove to be a challenge, personally, I like them, but those that are new to sharpening broadheads can find them to be difficult at first.

[Zradix]

Welcome!
I like your enthusiasm!        


Either B-head would be fine...as long as you can get them sharp.
I guess I might lean towards the smaller one though if hunting elk/moose sized game.

Personally I think you are choosing too stiff of spine.
I'm almost sure you'll want to go down a step.

Also....are you sure that a 30" arrow with a b-head will clear/ not hit your riser with your 29" draw?
I measure draw from the deepest part of the grip to the string.
I know this isn't AMO standard but many if not most guys here measure it the same way.


Have fun with your new stuff!    

[damascusdave]

The first question I always ask of someone coming over from the wheelie bow side of things is how is your form and release with fingers...not many shoot fingers with a compound these days and getting clean consistent releases with fingers is very different from getting them with a mechanical release...pretty clearly bareshaft tuning is in order to come up with correct dynamic spine which is necessary for good arrow flight and penetration...until you have good enough form to bareshaft tune you might want to think seriously about not shooting at a live animal...not all bad shots are misses in this game...when I switched over about 6 years ago I spent a full year shooting targets before I even thought about hunting, just a basic principle I picked up from the International Bowhunting Education Program, archer first, bowhunter second...nothing wrong with hunting another year with wheels while you work on form and conditioning with a stickbow

DDave

[legends1]

Welcome!!!

[Liquid Courage]

I think I started traditional archery the hard way. Too heavy a bow, not fully grasping the concept of arrow tuning and such. This forum set me straight just reading other peoples problems and posts. I think a 48# bow is great weight coming from a compound. I wish I would have done that to begin with, a bow somewhere in the 40's. Tuning and bare shafting arrows for a new bow is to me the fun part of traditional archery. Finding that perfect combination that you and your bow like. When it all comes together and all you see is feathers spinning, hitting right where you were looking - nothing in the world like it. To me it is anyway. Good luck!
BTW, Stu's spine calculator has helped me get started on tuning, picking shafts, point weights and such.

 http://www.heilakka.com/stumiller/

[bowhuntercook]

thankd yall!!! so would I be better off with a 3555 golftip to start with?-cook

[Bladepeek]

At 50#, you can probably go either way - 500 or 400 spine. I just wouldn't cut the arrows until y0u see what your bow wants. I'm thinking 5575 cut all the way back to 30" are going to be too stiff.

I have my 3555s cut to 29.5" (I'm only drawing 28.5") and I have to load them up to a total of 260 grains up front for my 46 - 50# bows.

I think I would start with a full length arrow and a point weight somewhere near the middle of the range you want to use and start cutting back until you get good, clean flight.

[Zradix]

what Bladepeek says x2
..cept I'd side on 500 spine.

on a couple bows I have in the 45-50# range I'm shooting 500's with 300 grains on both.
The 50#'s shafts are trimmed a little shorter.

On the 45# bow I shot 175 grain tips out of it with 500 spine shafts for a while. Those shafts needed to be about 1.5" longer than what was needed for the 300 grain. (about full length beman bowhunters if I recall correctly)

I'm drawing 28" from grip to string.
I don't know what length the arrows are to be honest.
I just trimmed em till they shot well.
..at full draw there's around an inch to 1.5 inch of shaft sticking out past the riser
Which is just far enough not to hit my index knuckle..lol