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BARESHAFT QUESTION

Started by JR Williams, August 01, 2015, 05:51:00 PM

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JR Williams

So, I got a new bow headed my way and plan to bareshaft group tune. I ordered a few shafts of different spines. My plan is to tune the arrow to the point weight I like.

My question is: How weak do you leave your bareshafts compared to your fletched shafts at say 25-30 yards? ie. how far away should the bareshafts group from the fletched shafts?

Everything I have read or come across says things like "A Smidge Weak" or "Slightly weak" when saying how far to leave bareshafts weak. I am planning on fletching with a cap wrap and 4X5in fletching so I will be adding 25-30 grains to the tail of the shaft and I would like to avoid adding weight to the front to compensate.

I have solid form and can shoot decent groups, but not sure if I should be looking for my bareshafts favoring the right side of the group, 2 inches to the right of fletched group, or 6 inches to the right of the fletched group.

Thanks.
God Bless

Numunuu

Bud B.

I don't think there's a specific answer.

Tune them slightly weak with a wrap. You can also fletch them and cut the vanes off the fletching and leave just the quill on the shaft with wrap. It should be weak enough to get you close enough to be able to tune by adjusting brace height afterwards with a fletched arrow.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

Bud B.

In other words, trial and error.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

JR Williams

Bud B.

Great idea about wrap and quills on the bareshaft. I didn't think about it. That would make me feel alot better rather than adding all that weight to the shaft afterwards.

Thanks.
God Bless

Numunuu

A.S.

The best answer I have found is to get close with your bare shaft, then fine tune shooting broadheads v/s field points.  If your broadheads group with your field points, you are golden.

jbpharmd

QuoteOriginally posted by A.S.:
The best answer I have found is to get close with your bare shaft, then fine tune shooting broadheads v/s field points.  If your broadheads group with your field points, you are golden.
Absolutely! This has given me great results. Just get your fletched arrows and bareshafts grouping together, put your desired broadhead and fieldpoints on fletched arrows and shoot them. A small change in brace height will adjust your arrow flight and get your broadheads flying identical to your field points which is the end-game anyway.

snag

When you fletch the shafts this acts like stiffen them. So if you bare shaft to where they hit a couple of inches weak fletching them will bring them right in.
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

AZ_Longbow

I cut from the back and use electrical tape inplace of a wrap and bare quills for the test. Way easier for me to do. And no need to pull inserts.
"There's only two things an arrow wants to do, it wants to fly and it wants to hit its target. It's in its very nature. Don't over think it."

JR Williams

Thank you guys for all the help!
God Bless

Numunuu

katman

I think you will find it to be about 2" at 25-30yds
shoot straight shoot often

tracker12

I usually start at 10 yards to bareshaft then move out to about 20 yards.  Am I missing anything not moving out father.
T ZZZZ

The Whittler

I start at around 12 to 15 yards and use one bare shaft. I cut until the shaft is flying pretty good then I back up to about 20 yards.

If it still shoots good I fletch and put a broad head on and all should be good. It works for me.


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