KME-light bulb went off

[Ray Lyon]

OK, so I've been a hit or miss sharpener for years.  I've always got it done, but sometimes it took me a while on each knife or head until I 'hit'.

Well, I looked back over a couple of KME threads and there's some mixed messages, but in there lies the truth---and man what a difference when the light bulb goes off. So here's my takeaways from all the threads and it's what worked for me:

1> Get the diamond stones! I've got extra course, course, fine and super fine as well as two stropping leathers and the 1.5 Micron and 4.0 micron stropping solutions. This all wasn't inexpensive-but a deal when you consider the uses and ease once you've got it.

2> Use the marker like many have said!  It's amazing how it will show you a couple of uneven spots on the blade that need further working so the bevel is even the length of the blade.

3> Raise the burr and then work it back and forth. For me I found that once I worked the burr up with back and forth strokes on first side, on the opposite side I'd PULL the stone only in the direction from the ferrule to the outside of the edge (strop's are always done this way only). This was my easiest and most consistent way of turning the burr back. Once I got to the fine stone and stropping, I really couldn't feel it (burr) anymore.  Also, on the fine stones and the strop's, it actually felt like I was pulling a magnet across the bevel because it was sticking smooth.

I know this topic has been here many times, however I was frustrated until that it finally clicked. I had actually given the original KME stones and kit to a buddy to try and he gave it back.  I said to myself this is crazy, bought the diamond stones and did the above and BAM! Peeling hair at will with anything I try sharpening-single bevel's, double bevels, knives-BAM.            

[Doc Nock]

Ray,

It surely is amazing when as you say, "The light comes on".

I visited a friend here mid week last week and we got mostly "rained out" to hunt with the storm, but he asked me to sharpen some Grizzly, not satisfied with his job on a Lansky.

Nothing taken from that fine tool, but the elongated "slots" always left me realizing I was putting way to much variance into each stroke.

I did 2 of his heads with my KME Knife Sharpener with the Gold Diamond stones and marker.

I don't know if they were new inventory or older stuff, but the marker showed a lot of variance in the bevel...Some times, the KME set at 30 (25* wouldn't even touch the leading edge without hitting the ferrule (no! I don't have the newer BH jaws)

So at 30*, some I would go across the whole bevel and remove all the black marker, others, I'd just get the leading edge.  

Then I did the other two on my BH sharpener by KME with the newer coarse/extra Coarse 2-sided diamond stone for that set up.  

We couldn't see a difference in sharpness, but at first it appeared the BH tool was quicker.. then I hit several bevels that took a while to raise that "wire".

They are slick sharp now and polished up.  

I think my friend is a new believer in KME!

[neuse]

Never had the light bulb expeirence.

I have a KME broadhead sharpener and have never gotten it figured put.
For me, not others, it just doesn't work so good.

[Doc Nock]

Originally posted by neuse:
Never had the light bulb expeirence.

I have a KME broadhead sharpener and have never gotten it figured put.
For me, not others, it just doesn't work so good.

Been there, Neuse, got the T-shirt.  Turned out I had pretty hard BH and not aggressive enough stone.

I rubbed and rubbed and rubbed till my arms ached...never raised that wire edge on the off side... and that was with a double bevel, not single.

Tried wet-dry auto body sandpaper, wet, on a piece of glass (Ron's suggestion) but the stuff I could get wasn't really "auto body grade" and it turned to mush.

Once I got his RED STONEs and then his Coarse/X-tra Coarse Diamond, I'm in biz.

Some blades have great hard steel and I won't list them cause I had only 3 types and it's not fair to others with hard steel.  Hard steel takes a lot of metal removal to change bevel and the BH Sharpener is set for roughly 25*...so if ground 30* you got some work..

I had a draw thru sharpener that seemed to work for me... but heads would go dull in the quiver...turned out it was a fine 19* bevel that was very thin and damaged quickly.

All the great systems I've seen folks use, depended on the coarseness "whatever" (depending on file, sanding wheel, etc)with their roughest as a starting point.  You MUST raise that off-side wire before you move on or it's never sharp!

Call Ron.  He takes time to get you up to speed or will tell you flat out what your problem is.

[Dave Earley]

I too, wasn't getting good enough results until I switched to the coarse / X coarse diamond.  Now - wowza !  truly shaving hair offa my forearm...  I too found variations in bevel that required some adjustments, but with a coarse enough stone, it's quick work.

[habujohn]

I do really well with the double bevel heads like the ace and black diamonds but I have ruined many single bevel heads trying to use my KME.  I have not tried their BH system, just the knife one and I do use the diamond stones.  I gave up on the single bevel heads.

[olddogrib]

I think the majority of folk's frustration with sharpening systems comes from using the wrong angle.  Even with a Sharpie sometimes I have to get a magnifying glass to tell whether I'm just polishing the main bevel or removing metal at the very edge.  Lots of knife grinds have primary and secondary bevels and it's easy to be deceived.  Even good broadheads have relatively rough, coarse grinds. Every body wants a super keen edge and the tendency is to go too acute, i.e. 17-20 degrees inclusive, when they'd stand a better chance of reproducing the factory grind at 25-30.  The clue is if you're getting a nice shiny strip of metal, but the edge isn't getting keener(you're not "raising the burr") then you're likely just flattening the "shoulder" at the secondary bevel and aren't moving metal at the very edge.  Trying raising the angle.

Ain't no doubt. Ron and KME are the real deal!!!!!!

Bisch

[Ray Lyon]

On single bevel you must flatten the back edge so it's even the length of the edge. Lay the flat of the back edge  on the extra course stone and then lift up ever so slightly and softly work back and forth the whole edge at once .

I use 25 degrees on my Grizzly heads on the bevel side. The marker confirms I've got grinding to do and where there are uneven spots. However I always feel for the burr before proceeding further.