V2 taper tool

[kat]

I decided to start shooting woodies, so I bought a v2 taper tool from 3 rivers. My problem was that after staining, and sealing with a couple coats, the shafts wouldn't fit in the guide.
The guides are about +.005" over 11/32. The problem is the shafts are +.007".
I have only tried this on one doz. sitka spruce shafts.
For those who have used this tool, is this normal, or am I doing something wrong?

[darin putman]

I use it on surewoods and after finishing if I need to retaper I use the 23/64 guide. I use reparrow to fix some broken woodies and always order them 23/64 so they are easier to match to my finished shafts and lots of times I taper them with no guide on the v2. It is just a guide and I have no trouble keeping tapers straight without one, I just take my time but prefer to use when able.

[ChiefStingingArrow]

I have had the same problem on the last two batches of arrows....in which i had coated them 4 times.... I had coated a batch of arrows two times and had no problems.

[Bud B.]

Yeah, less dips or coats, or taper before dipping/coating.

[Shawn Rackley]

I got one, was never satisfied. Even after they sent another. I just stick to the cheapy plastic throw away. Honestly wish I would just sent it back for a refund. But was to lazy too. Lol

[akbowbender]

I like mine. I just do my tapers before sealing.

[kat]

I found that if I wrap the finished arrow with scotch tape a couple of turns, and use the 23/64" guide, it takes up the slop. Kind of a pain, but I do like the way the tool cuts.
I would taper before finishing, but was told that the hot melt doesn't bond as well to the lacquer as it does the raw wood.

[Bud B.]

Scrape the finish off the point before putting points on, or, use two part epoxy. You could also sand (scuff up) the tapers a little to help with bonding. I use hot melt and rarely have any problems (I attribute it to not cleaning the inside of the point well enough - oil). When I use two part epoxy I have never had a point release from the taper.

[kat]

Thanks Bud- That will sure make life easier.

[ron w]

I taper first then finish.......

[Bud B.]

Heat will still make the two part epoxy release, just need a little more. Be careful not to overheat, though.

[The Whittler]

When I do wood I make sure they are straight then I taper. After that I stain and paint.

I never put stain or paint on my tapers so the glue bonds real good on bare wood.

[frassettor]

I made that mistake to. I have the same taper tool. I will taper before I stain/seal but I used the next size up  accommodate the larger size due to the thickness of the poly

[Veneficus]

Kat,
It isnt the taper tool thats the issue. It is the arrow shafts.
Sitka spruce are slightly oversized so you need to sand them before they fit in the 11/32 guide.
The burnished shafts 3 rivers sells will fit exactly in the guide.
If you use a think coat of sealer,they wont fit either. So like others said taper before you stain and finish.
Use the 23/64 guide if it doesnt fit. I have never had an issue with wobbley points using a bigger guide.
 I have made thousands of arrows with this tool. I used to sell arrows.
Just my .02