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Screw in eskimo's
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Topic: Screw in eskimo's (Read 372 times)
TIM B
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 1775
Screw in eskimo's
«
on:
November 21, 2015, 06:00:00 PM »
Just got a few to try. Shot 2 arrows into the "block" and one of the heads pulled off in the block. I was able to dig it out. What's the best glue epoxy for putting it back on?
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Carpdaddy
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 806
Re: Screw in eskimo's
«
Reply #1 on:
November 21, 2015, 06:08:00 PM »
I use the stuff Big Jim sells, a hot melt. Or most any local shop will carry the ferrel tite hot melt, hope I'm not remembering the name wrong, if so somebody will clean it up hopefully.
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Stumpshooting; Slinging sticks with sticks toward the origin of the sticks.
carbonflyr
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 772
Re: Screw in eskimo's
«
Reply #2 on:
November 21, 2015, 07:12:00 PM »
i like jb weld
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carbonflyr
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 772
Re: Screw in eskimo's
«
Reply #3 on:
November 21, 2015, 07:13:00 PM »
i like jb weld...damn double post
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SlowBowinMO
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 2540
Re: Screw in eskimo's
«
Reply #4 on:
November 22, 2015, 03:58:00 PM »
I prefer two part epoxy for a permanent bond or low temp hot melt if I may want to change things up later.
I have always heard good things about the JB Weld as well but have never tried it as I was satisfied with the epoxy.
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"Down-Log Blind at Misty River"
J-dog
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 2006
Re: Screw in eskimo's
«
Reply #5 on:
November 22, 2015, 10:32:00 PM »
Hot melt or epoxy, be sure you clean out the ferrule and the adapter with some acetone or lacquer thinner. You'll be surprised the junk you clean out of there.
I use hot melt. Six to one half dozen to ther other.
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Always be stubborn.
Captain hindsight to the rescue!
T Lail
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 818
Re: Screw in eskimo's
«
Reply #6 on:
November 23, 2015, 07:51:00 AM »
hot melt has all ways worked for me....just make sure head and adapter are clean.......
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NCBA Life Member
Compton Member
Carolina Traditinal Archers
Bowhunter Education Instructor
Jon Stewart
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 2567
Re: Screw in eskimo's
«
Reply #7 on:
November 23, 2015, 08:45:00 AM »
As mentioned, Clean the inside of the head and the adaptor before gluing. I use an old tap on the head and on field points before I glue.
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NY Yankee
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 538
Wooden Bows, Wooden Arrows and 2-Blade Broadheads
Re: Screw in eskimo's
«
Reply #8 on:
November 24, 2015, 12:28:00 PM »
Hot melt works just fine but you need to do 3 things. 1.Burn the oil out of the ferrule in the head. 2. Make sure you have enough glue on the insert and that it is spread evenly all the way around. 3. make sure the head is fully seated to the bottom on the insert. I always seem to over do it on the hot-melt but Ive never had a point come off and I don't really mind trimming off the excess glue. Glue is cheaper that broadheads.
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"Elk don't know how many feet a horse has!"
Bear Claw Chris Lapp
mangonboat
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 1023
Re: Screw in eskimo's
«
Reply #9 on:
November 24, 2015, 09:50:00 PM »
I've done the same thing twice this year and I'm convinced the Ferrule-Lite is brittle and you just never know it because you're pushing in. When you retract the arrow there's no adhesion. I am going to start using 2-part epoxy.
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mangonboat
I've adopted too many bows that needed a good home.
bigiron
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 260
Re: Screw in eskimo's
«
Reply #10 on:
November 25, 2015, 07:25:00 PM »
I have found the two part epoxy that I use for golf club building to be far superior to any thing else I've ever used. I get it from Golfsmith or Maltby golf supply.
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