Does anyone carve their own arrow shafts?

[pastorjosh44]

Would appreciate a little info.  I would really like to make my own arrows (I've done a little by buying the pieces), but I want to carve the shafts.  For you who do this, what woods are acceptable to use?  I see most wood shafts are cedar or fir, but why is that?  I have a load of hickory, is it possible to make some out of it?  Thanks in advance.

[Jack Skinner]

By "carve" do you mean dowel. If so then yes there are several on here myself included who make their own shafts. Yes hickory makes a solid heavey hunting shaft. I use a Veritas jig to turn my shafts.
From this:
 
To This:
 
With a lot of work inbetween

[Pat B]

I've made my own doweled shafts with square stock and a thumb plane. My preferred shafting is either sourwood(hardwood) shoots or cane.

[pastorjosh44]

I did not realize that "dowel" was the proper word, that would explain why I could find nothing when I research d it.  Thank you.  I don't know what a Veritas jig is, so I'll look that up.  

Is any wood acceptable?  It's helpful to know hickory will work, but what about Ash or maple?

[Gordon Jabben]

Yes, just about any straight grained wood will work but it has to be dry.  I have the best luck making square dowels and then letting them set about a year before making arrow shafts.

[Jack Skinner]

I am not sure doweling is correct either. I always just say I turn my own shafts because I turn (spin) a 1/2 square that I cut on my table saw down to a 3/8 dowel. Then I hand sand down to my preferred spine. Here are a few more pictures of my process.
The veritas jig I use there is a cheaper version that is not adjustable but works very well.
 
 

[Jack Skinner]

I have made good shafts from ash, poplar, maple, birch, hickory, doug fir. I have tried other materials with mixed or bad results, but those are my favorites. I buy as straight of grain kiln dried boards as I can find so I dont have to wait for them to season. We have a Sears and Trostle in N. Colorado that I frequent to search through their nice assortment of hard woods. I can buy by the board foot so not much waste. You dont get a usable shaft from all boards but I can buy say poplar board 36 inch rough for 12 to 20 bucks. If I get a dozen shafts from it I am way ahead of buying shafts on line. I really dont do it for cost saving I do it because I really enjoy making as much of my equipment as I can.

[Jon Stewart]

We make them using that same double Verita dowel maker.  We have experimented with various woods.

[pastorjosh44]

That's all very helpful.  I have some kiln dried ash, hickory, persimmon, and cherry.  I think I'll try some ash and hickory.  I'm still new to the arrow spine concept as well, so there will be some figuring out to do.  

For you all who make your own arrows, do any of you hunt with stone points as well?  Do you buy your points or knap  them yourself?

[Pat B]

I hunt with stone, trade points of commercial points. I don't knap(yet) but usually trade for points and blades.

[pastorjosh44]

Pat B-  Do you get your points from people on this site?

[ChuckC]

As alluded to above, Veritas also makes a less expensive doweler, a single blade version, which works, but not as sweet as that two blade version.  Problem is, that second one is kinda pricey.

There are other ways.  Look up a DVD by Connie and Gary Renfro ( likely on the 3Rivers site) and they give a LOT of guidance for simple ( and not so simple) arrow making tips.  A really well made video.

ChuckC

[Jack Skinner]

Persimmon that is a wood we just dont get out west I would like to know how that works out, it makes great box calls. Have not tried cherry. Knapping is on my bucket list right now I make my own trade points using old table saw blades, a dremmel, and a grinder. Have used O2 tool steel as well from knife supply company.

I have the video that ChukC is referring to and it is an excellant video.

What I have found is that ash, maple, hickory come in on the heavey grain weight and spine side. If you shoot heavy bows good to go otherwise turn to a smaller diameter or sand a lot.
Birch, and doug fir come out closest to my preferred spine and grain weight with less sanding needed. But I find the doug fir here to dry and brittle at times.
Poplar is one of my favorites but hit and miss. I bought two boards a while back and all came in to lite of spine for me but my kids and grandkids made out like bandits. When it does come in it is a great arrow wood especially for hard wood footing.

[Pat B]

I have some poplar shafts that Charlie Jefferson made on his Veritas. So far they are my favorites. They are a little light in physical weight but not by much. I think my finished arrows are right around 500gr or slightly less for a 30" arrow.
 Charlie found that wood seasoned for at least 2 years made the best shafting.

[pastorjosh44]

Ok, I have some poplar as well.  My first go at it, I think I'll stick with the hickory.  It'll be a slow project for me.  I still need to find a supply of stone points.  I saw 3 Rivers sells some, but I'd really like to trade from someone.  Keeps me more part of the process.  Flint knapping looks like it would take yrs to get good at, and I don't really need another hobby.  If any of you knap points let me know what you might be interested in trading for.  Buckskin, deer rawhide, leather, quiver...

[Jakeemt]

Pastorjosh-For a more primitive shaft you can make arrows from shoots of dog wood, red osier, witch hazel, and a variety of others. If you want to trade for stone points I would contact Ryan Gill (you can google Ryan Gill + primitive archery) he makes and sells stone points along with all sorts of primitive gear. He is a very nice and helpful guy. If you contact George Tsoukolas (sp?) he has a whole website devoted to primitive bows and arrows along with a pine arrow build along from board stock. He makes primitive metal points called trade points and again is a super nice and helpful guy.