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Author Topic: Toelke Whip Tuning Questions  (Read 2810 times)

Online Brianlocal3

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Re: Toelke Whip Tuning Questions
« Reply #20 on: December 30, 2015, 09:27:00 AM »
This is why it's hard to ask for arrow advice

I only draw 26" but I'm shooting my 47@26 longbow with 28" 2016s and 125 up front and they are perfect, these SHOULD be stiff but for me they are not.
You gonna have to play around till you find what works bud
JD Berry Taipan (original) 53@28 62”
Cascade mountain Brush Hawk 53@28 56”

Offline danshao

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Re: Toelke Whip Tuning Questions
« Reply #21 on: December 30, 2015, 06:05:00 PM »
just talked with Dan over the phone. So the arrows are indeed on the stiff side. I'll try some 1916 that I have and see if they solve my problems. As to the metallic noise according to Dan it is also an indication that my arrows are too stiff because the shaft is coming back to the bow when released.

Will try them out tomorrow morning if possible. Can't wait   :)

Offline danshao

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Re: Toelke Whip Tuning Questions
« Reply #22 on: December 31, 2015, 02:59:00 PM »
yepp the arrows are too stiff.

I tried shooting the 1916s and the metallic noise is gone. the arrows seem to fly better even when all my 1916s are bent. That's settled then, I'll get some new 1916s and just use 125 heads on them.

Thanks for all the inputs folks I really appreciate it. Happy New Year  :D

Offline the rifleman

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Re: Toelke Whip Tuning Questions
« Reply #23 on: January 01, 2016, 11:57:00 AM »
I have two whips-- one 50@28 and the other 42@28.  Both of mine want 600 spine arrows w between 145 to 200 gr up front.  500s were wayyyy too stiff no matter how much weight up front.  You'll do well w 1916s, gold tip 1535s or beman 600s.  Your bow will tell you what it wants and my hunch is that you are now on the right track and have only fine tuning left.  Good luck!

Offline danshao

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Re: Toelke Whip Tuning Questions
« Reply #24 on: March 26, 2016, 10:09:00 PM »
Ok wanted to yell back to this thread as I think I finally was able to tune the bow to shoot the way it's supposed to. The bow has been very unstable since I got it last Dec and prone to shoot left when I slouch for even a bit. But now it's shooting straight lines just like my whippenstick and is much quieter than I first got the bow.

First off, the default nock height was not the reason I got fletching cut. It was the quills of my poorly fletched arrows. Right winged fletching for right handed shooters has this reputation of having bloody fingers.I stuck a narrow strip of electric tape around the pointy ends of quills and the cut is gone and I'm free to place my hand as close to the shelf as I like.

Second, once I lowered the crazy perhaps 1" nock height to around 1/2" or 5/8", the arrows fly more consistently and there's no metallic banging noise if the arrows are of proper spine. The bow is actually pretty easy to shoot well with a variety of arrows once I set the nock height to the right place. I shot 2018 29.5" w/ 200 gr point, 2016 29.5" w/ 145 gr and 3555 30" w/ 145 gr, all of them shoot straight and has no weird flight when bare shafted.

Good that I didn't sell the bow out of frustration because that would have been a huge mistake!

Offline hybridbow hunter

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Re: Toelke Whip Tuning Questions
« Reply #25 on: March 27, 2016, 04:19:00 AM »
Give a try to .600 arrow spine it should be much better
La critique est aisée mais l'art est difficile.

Offline michaelschwister

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Re: Toelke Whip Tuning Questions
« Reply #26 on: March 27, 2016, 07:06:00 AM »
Sounds like you are still too stiff.  I cut my shelf in further to get it too shoot what other bows in this weight class would shoot for spine.  Mine is 64# and lasers 340s with 300 grains at 28" draw
"The best thing to give to your enemy is forgiveness; to a friend, your heart; to your child, a good example; to a father, deference; to your mother, conduct that will make her proud of you; to yourself, respect" - Benjamin Franklin

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