I want this to work !!!!!

[Bladepeek]

In the end, we all have to work it out for ourselves, but if you are really that serious about making this work, spend the time/money to locate either a competent trad instructor, or a trad group with a weekly league or shoot of some kind. Find someone you can get along with who shoots well and ask him to help you tune the bow. It will save a lot of frustration and, in the end, a lot of money.

Just because someone is shooting well, doesn't make him a good instructor and his methods may not be right for you. However, the fact that he is shooting that well means you can learn something from him. Learn enough from several different style shooters and it will help you get things smoothed out.

[J. Cook]

One thing to consider is measuring your draw length accurately - if you are just assuming the draw length of your compound is the same as it is on your recurve, then there's the problem.  Your draw will be at least 2" shorter on a trad bow than on a compound.  Those 2" can make a MAJOR impact on tuning.  You must know your accurate draw length to know where to start with arrows.

[Stringpuller#1]

More great advice thanks. I'd prefer to use aluminum or even wood, just because I shoot carbon in the compound and I'm trying to leave it all there, radically change it all in my switch to traditional hunting.
I'm going to take a leap of faith and buy some 2016's and start there. I do have the field point test pack so I can start at 100 gr and go all the way up to 200gr. Thanks for all the encouragement, something about pulling that string back and letting an arrow fly keeps nagging at my psyche, has me wanting to sell my compound even to get a newer custom bow. I'd like to say I started in this art with the wheel bow and now I need to graduate and go backwards in time for my next course, if that makes sense?

[VA Elite]

I have no knowledge of aluminum arrows except for 20 some years ago with a compound. So i cant help at all with those arrows or wooden arrows. As far as draw length, mine is the same as my compound but not at first. it was shorter for a while and then it came to be 27" after I settled on my anchor. good luck with it all.

[dirtguy]

You ought to have someone check you shooting form.  As Rob mentioned above, you may be over bowed without knowing it.

Before anyone can start to tune arrows to their bow, their form had better be pretty darn good, otherwise they'll be getting all sorts of false readings that are due to a poor release or inconsistent anchor or any number of things.

Personally, Id work on form with a good teacher and a low draw weight bow, then when you've really got it down. go back and tune those arrows to that Herter's

[Archer1977]

Having been down the same road as you recently. I would look at form and maybe consider carbons. I think they are a little more forgiving until you get your form much better they may help. I relate form to golf, you will know when you are doing it right.

Also, take a breather and relax. The more frustrated you get the worse you will do, I know from experience. Have fun with it, if you are not perhaps you should re-evaluate why you are doing it.  

[PEARL DRUMS]

Poor form alone will make every arrow shaft you shoot look like crap in flight. Generally speaking when nothing works, its your form. Just something to consider.

[VA Elite]

Originally posted by Archer1977:
Having been down the same road as you recently. I would look at form and maybe consider carbons. I think they are a little more forgiving until you get your form much better they may help. I relate form to golf, you will know when you are doing it right.

Also, take a breather and relax. The more frustrated you get the worse you will do, I know from experience. Have fun with it, if you are not perhaps you should re-evaluate why you are doing it.    

I have to agree with this 100%. Man last year I went through this I even started with Carbons. I can only imagine the frustration of Alum/wood arrows and trying to do it alone. Please reconsider the carbon arrows and try to find someone that can be of help. I had some help last year but most of it was trial and error. It takes a few months unless you are just really gifted.

[MnFn]

There is a really nice traditional archery shop in Rochester MN.  If you are around there, I'd stop in and talk to Terry, I think he could help you figure some things out.

It's the Footed Shaft.

[BWallace10327]

Originally posted by Stringpuller#1:but as soon as I strip the feathers off an arrow to get "serious" about this thing, it always reveals spine issues and what not, to where I get frustrated and sell everything

wow.  I'm glad that I've never "gotten serious".  If arrows are flying straight and grouping where is the is the problem?  Try bareshafting when you're perfect, until then, be happy when you hit were you look.

[reddogge]

If we could get aluminum arrows to shoot perfectly in the 60s with absolutely no knowledge of tuning I'm sure you can too. To me they are the easiest to understand and tune.

[Stringpuller#1]

I got some 2016 Gamegetters, cut them to 30.5 inches with a 145 gr point and this seems to be ok. I did bare shaft one of the arrows, though not perfect is liveable for me for now, with feathers they fly well.
I plan to practice daily so come April I'll be accurate enough to try for my first traditional turkey kill, then deer in the fall.....I'm even going as far as taking my compound to the pro shop down the road and having the string and cables removed and store it for the whole year so there's no changing my mind, 2016 I'm committed to tradional archery hunting only.
My total arrow weight is 512grains, 50lb Herters recurve, 28" draw, hunting with 150gr muzzy phantom 4 blades.

[VA Elite]

I bet with a few more weeks or months you will be bare shafting those arrows when your form fall into place. Good luck and keep at it.

[jackdaw]

I'm with reddogge....2016s ...