Changing Inserts During Tuning

[richter]

Hi guys. I have what might be a simple question. I am doing a lot of reading on arrow tuning and I am curious on how folks remove inserts, from carbon arrows, to cut arrow length or try different inserts. I work part time in a local bow shop and the glue we normally use is an Easton product that is like permanent super glue. We do also have standard hot glue, and a blue glue stick that melts at lower temps. I'm just curious how you guys are doing it.

Just for reference, several years ago I tried traditional archery with a recurve from Jim Belcher. I wasn't fully committed and, after two seasons, I sold the Belcher and went back to my compound. I again found myself unfulfilled. So, in less than two weeks I will be getting my new recurve from Chad Holm. I have sold every piece of my compound related equipment and immersed myself back into the Trad Gang threads. This forum is wonderful and is there a nicer guy than Chad Holm?

Thanks.

[Jake Scott]

I use hot melt, I have several different kinds laying around.  I like the flexibility if I want to change setups.  It's also nice if you sell arrows, guys can pull the inserts out and re-tune.  

Welcome!!!!

Jake

[JRY309]

What I use for tuning carbon arrows is to use some saran wrap.I'll push in the insert with alittle saran wrap,it will hold in the insert snug enough for shooting and tuning.You just need a softer target like a bag target that does not grab too tight on the arrow with pulling out of the target.I've been doing my tuning like this for years,works great and is quick and easy on changing setups.

[Pryor]

I am also getting ready to tune some carbons for the first time.  I saw a utube vidio once that I believe a Trad Ganger made where he just used electric tape around the arrow, insert, field point. Looked like an easy way to change out point weight, but I am not sure if my target will allow it.   Looking forward to this thread.

[Hermon]

If you are going to be bare shaft testing, just trim from the nock end.  You can glue the insert with whatever product you prefer and then just remove the nock and trim to length.

[9 Shocks]

I tack mine in with a dab of super glue. Just a dab! And then I can just twist a little bit and pop it out with no damage to my arrow and it dries quick and works great when shooting into my bag target.  But remember...just a dab! Then I used insert iron to put them in for good.

[Car54]

I use hot melt glue that I get from BigJim Archery. He's a sponsor here. He has a video on his site changing tips. That's all I use hunting or whatever on my carbons.

[dnurk]

Another vote for Big Jim glue (bought when I got my first set of blems from him.)   Easy to heat the carbon arrow with super hot water and then just pull the fieldpoint/insert out with a pair of channel lock pliers.

[Arctic Hunter]

I use the blue stick fer-l-tite (or whatever it's called). Bare shaft tuning lets me trim from the nock end. But if I want to remove the insert, I just screw a tip in it and heat the tip until I can pull the insert by the field point. It works well and you can do it with a lighter with no damage to the shaft.

[TOEJAMMER]

Low temp hot melt.

[reddogge]

Saran wrap on the insertlike JRY309. Use a softer target. I use a rolled up large piece of foam rubber.

[LongbowArchitect]

"If you are going to be bare shaft testing, just trim from the nock end."

This is what I do (bare shaft only). Once you fletch up then you'll be forced to trim the insert end. I use hot melt cement on inserts so I can remove the insert if needed, rotate broadheads to the orientation I prefer and to get them to spin true.

[Bladepeek]

I get a little picky about having my arrows match in appearance as well as tune.

When I'm bare-shafting, I put the insert in what would normally be the nock end of the shaft with low-temp hot melt. Then I cut from the nock end until I'm happy with things. At that point I clean out the end where the insert was, put the nock in that end and then put the insert in with hot melt. My labels are all the same distance from the nock that way.

A bit anal, maybe, but I think they look nicer if the graphics are all in the same place.

[the rifleman]

Craft store glue gun hot melt.  Cheap and low temp.  When I'm ready to do final install I use big jims.

[Wheels2]

I use only the Ferr-L-Tite blue stick.
Holds as good as anything else and by heating the tip and screwing it into the insert, the glue loosens and can be easily removed without damage.

[MnFn]

I have lost  a point in the target when using Saran Wrap. Hot melt for me.

Use the Quick Stick hot melt from Big Jim's Bow Co for your inserts, and you can put them in and out as you please. That is the best insert glue I have ever used!!! And then when you are done, just leave it because it is already glued in with the best glue out there.

Bisch

[M60gunner]

I remove the graphics epoxy the inserts in with a golf shaft epoxy. Cut from nock end. I realize that my wrap and fletch will add a very nominal amount of spine and allow for that.

[bruinman]

I use a piece of sewing thread. One strand hooked over the end of the insert so you have one strand going down each side of the insert. Works great.

[richter]

Thanks Guys. I appreciate all of the great ideas you shared. I will let you know how things go once I get the bow from Chad and start the process.