I had an idea tonight to help retain points on woodies.

[bluemelonchitlin]

I clean the inside of the points with alcohol making sure they are clean. Then the inside of the points get roughed up with a wire brush,meticulously cleaning inside the points again. Then I use Gorilla Glue to install the points onto the shafts. Next step is a ten penny nail point is tapped into the side of each point twice 180° apart just enough to push a small amount of metal into the woods to keep the points in place.
Just my 2¢ on this subject...

[reddogge]

Use the propane torch to really heat up those points. You need to burn the oil left from the manufacturing process out of them. They need to be heated much hotter than you need to melt the hot melt so heat all of them in one operation.

A trick I used on muzzleloading ram rods was to drill a hole through the tapped end shaft and chamfer the holes a little. I drove a small brass brad through the hole and cut it off leaving 1/16" protruding out each side. Then I peened the brass nail down to the shaft filling the chamfer, dressed it up with a file. They will never come off.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

I use a small wire brush on the dremel, then clean the inside of the point with alcohol. I use Big Jims Hot Melt and have not lost a point in years unless I break the arrow.

[monterey]

Sometimes the point Will be blowing a flame out the opening when the goomba burns off.

[iohkus]

http://traditionalarcheryproducts.com/?wpsc-product=point-brush-2

[bowhuntingrn]

This is the one I referenced earlier as having just bought. It appears to do a great job, but I still cleaned with 91% alcohol afterwards.

 

Originally posted by iohkus:
 http://traditionalarcheryproducts.com/?wpsc-product=point-brush-2  

[tecum-tha]

Hot melt will always fail along the hard and slick interior metal surface of the point. To prevent loss, you use a M8 (metric 8) thread cutter and cut two revolutions into the inside of the point ferrule.
Even with "cheap" hot melt, they won't come loose anymore. Ferr-L-Tite is one of the worst hot melts anyways. Way too hard and brittle. The high strength glue sticks for the glue guns does just as well. If you use hardwood arrows or repair pieces behind the point and use a high quality taper tool that will really just shave off a thin piece of wood an leave a supper slick surface, just use a small pull saw held at 90 degrees and scratch the taper. That will give enough roughness that there will never be a failure along the wood.

I have gone to the Stanley amber.  It takes more heat, but I find it to be the strongest hot melt that I have ever found.

[tecum-tha]

I use the Surebonder Standard Clear Glue Sticks from Menards. Made in the USA and not in China, like the Stanley stuff. Not that it really matters.

[FJTOYMAN]

I clean all my points and broad heads with the point brush mentioned above. I then clean the inside of the point with acetone and Qtips till they come out clean.
I use an industrial grade 3m glue that is used for packaging. I heat the stick up and apply the glue to the shaft. I then heat the point up and spin it on the shaft.
Ever since I started using the point brush and 3m glue I have not lost a point. Even when shooting broad heads at 3D targets.

[longstiks]

I clean mine with alcohol after running a 5/16" tap in until it bottoms out. I use ferreltite and melt a little on the shaft then heat the head and when it starts to move down on the shaft I screw it onto the point with pliers till it gets tight.Dip in cold water and I have'nt lost a tip in years.
Denny

[Grey Taylor]

For those of you who use taps inside the heads for added glue purchase, it looks as if either 5/16" or metric 8 are the preferred size for an 11/32" head.
What size do you recommend for a 5/16" head or a 23/64" head?

Guy

[bowhuntingrn]

I like this idea of tapping the tips.

[longstiks]

I don't use 5/16" tips but the same tap will work for 23/64" tips. It just goes a tiny bit deeper into the point.
Denny