Fletch-Tite Platinum Problems

[Orion]

Don't know whose wraps I'm using, but have never had a problem with Fletchtite platinum.

[the rifleman]

Ditto what wolf said!!

[the rifleman]

On the leaving the arrow up out of the clamp.

[wapiti]

Bohning products are made to be used with other Bohning products. Kind of a crap shoot using them with other products. Over the years I use Fletchtite with Bohning dipped shafts but Saunders NPV sticks to about everything you can think of when it comes to NON Bohning products.

[Tim Finley]

I have used super glue and got the whole works stuck together feather, arrow and clamp . I havnt had any trouble with platinum but now Im worried as I am just fletching 2 dozen carbons with it. I like wood arrows with Duco the best.

Originally posted by reddogge:
Switch to Saunders NPV and your troubles will go away.

This.

[wingnut]

Wraps are not in love with Fletch tite products.  Gel superglue is much better.

Mike

[Dave Nash]

I use the fletching tape and have never had a issue

[stagetek]

Seems like Fletch-tite has had on and off issues for awhile now. I was lucky to never have had problems, but because the local shop was out of it, I bought some Saunders NPV. I liked it a lot better and will be using it from now on.

[stagetek]

I should have added, that I use wraps all the time, and have had no problem with feathers staying on.

[Mr. fingers]

Are you using 99%alcohol or rubbing alcohol? Not the same. Rubbing alcohols has oils in it.
I've been using Fletch tite platinum and wraps from 3 Rivers forever with Truflight feathers. Never had one come off in fact I have a heck of a time getting them off to re-fletch I have to heat the wrap and peel it off the quill will not separate from the wrap.
If you have space between your feather and your,shaft you need to adjust your clamp. Put a dry feather in it and loosen your dial or dials and play with it till the feather sits as flush as you can get it. Tighten it up.
When you glue one on press down on the clamp and hold it down tight for 30 seconds. Then walk away let it set up fo 20 minutes or more then do the next one.

[Kevin Dill]

I always went with the logic of using one company's products in order to assure compatibility. I got started on Bohning over 30 years ago and it never failed me. Clear dip, crown dip (paint), cresting paint and Fletch-Tite. My arrows were good for as long as I needed them to be. That's one reason I was loathe to try anything but Bohning finishes and glues. It's one thing if fletching problems happen while hunting near home, but can be a big problem on a distant hunt.

I guess when a guy decides to go with other stains, finishes, wraps, paints and glues from a variety of sources he probably needs to do plenty of testing and maybe expect some things to be imperfect. Find your way and remember how you got there.

I use F-T Platinum on all my hunting arrows without problems. Regardless of the shaft I always do a real paint crown dip before cresting. My experience is that glue adheres much better to paint than to naked carbon or aluminum. I have never used vinyl wraps and likely never will.