Wood Arrows & Screw-in Points

[Rough Run]

I would really appreciate some input.

I am about to make the switch from aluminum arrows to wood arrows.  But, I am torn between using conventional glue-on points or, the adapters for screw-in points, like Top Hat.  My thinking is that the screw-in route would make tuning the arrow easier and faster, as far as point weight and, make field repairs or replacements much easier.  As well as providing an additional 40-50 grains of the total weight at the point.

Any experience you would be willing to share is very welcomed.  Is my reasoning flawed?  Are there other factors I have not considered?  

Thank you!

[frank bullitt]

Jeff, your reasoning is not flawed! Makes perfect sense.

Point weight along with ability to swap quickly, time saving= more shooting!

My first question would be the bow. What ya shooting?

[frank bullitt]

Jeff, your reasoning is not flawed! Makes perfect sense.

Point weight along with ability to swap quickly, time saving= more shooting!

My first question would be the bow. What ya shooting?

[Orion]

The adaptors work, but I don't like the looks of the adaptor that one has to glue over the wood shaft to make them accept screw in points.  Adds unnecessary length and girth to the arrow near the point. Adds weight I may or may not want.

Unless enough clearance is provided, it's also possible to pull the rear of the adaptors onto the arrow shelf. The larger diameter adaptor can catch on the front of the shelf or side plate, and because of it's larger diameter vis-a-vis the shaft, can throw the shot off a little.

I don't find it difficult to change glue on points.  Once you've determined the point weight you want, there's no reason to be making a lot of changes.

Anything hit that will snap off a glue on point in the field will also break the adaptor, so it wouldn't be a matter of just screwing in another point.  Such arrows can't be fixed in the field. Well, you could whittle another taper for a glue on point, I suppose.

A personal choice.  They work, but it's not my cup of tea.

[Rough Run]

Frank,  
I am shooting a Samick Phantom, 45# @ 28", and I draw a shade over 29".  Easton 2018s, cut to 31", with 3 - 5" right wing/right helical feathers, and 125 gr. points.  That bow shoots them well, but I think I could add a little more weight up front without adverse affects.

Orion,
Those are all good points.  Since I cut my arrows to 31" with a 29" draw, I think I could shorten the arrow to offset most of the increased length, while still maintaining an overall length and distance to the point that would clear the shelf and that I would be comfortable with.  You are right about breaks - broken is broken, either way.  

I really wonder about stability and durability.  None of the types I have seen have stated how far they are seated onto the shaft, and the pictures sure don't look like it can be more than 1/2" to 5/8", at most.    With that little contact, will they withstand the rigors of frequent practice sessions?  If I have to tighten or adjust them frequently, I would have gained nothing that could not be accomplished another way.

[slowbowjoe]

Oops, had saved this post earlier, didn't see any responses then. Orion pretty well covers it. Also, consider what total arrow weight you want - adding 40 or 50 grains, to a wood arrow, at your draw weight, might put you in some heavy GPP territory.

[BenBow]

Why not find aluminum shats that will fit over your wood shafts. Put the aluminum insert in the shaft then cut the aluminum shaft so couple of inches of aluminum shaft fits over the wood shaft. Definitely lighter and a lower profile than the standard outserts for wood arrows

[BenBow]

Why not find aluminum shats that will fit over your wood shafts. Put the aluminum insert in the shaft then cut the aluminum shaft so couple of inches of aluminum shaft fits over the wood shaft. Definitely lighter and a lower profile than the standard outserts for wood arrows

[monterey]

I had some adapters similar to the top hats but they were designed to glue onto a taper.  After playing with them for a while I concluded that they were an answer looking for a question.  Not trying to be a wise acre, but it just turned out that for me they were an added feature that provided no benefit.

But, all of my broadheads were glue-on so the selection was not made larger.  If I wanted to use broadheads that were only available as screw ons it might have been a different conclusion.  My own broadhead opinions place the glue on heads as superior to most screw on only heads anyway.

Please take this with a dose of good humor, but I think your switch to wood has brought on a bit of separation anxiety.  

[frank bullitt]

Well Jeff, I agree with Orion on the size of the adaptors. The few that I have were the aluminum ones made by Outers.

They definitelyhave a large shoulder, simular to the old carbon outserts.

[Sam McMichael]

I have used adapters but did not really care for them. Once I find the point that tunes well, I stay with it completely, not really liking to experiment. However, your thoughts make good sense, and if you like to tinker, it will be easier for you to change point configuration.

[Rough Run]

Ha! I really do have separation anxiety! But I am anxious to shoot wood arrows, and a little too over-analytical, probably, wanting to get it right.  I should remember the addage about first things first.  I had not even thought about the aluminum arrow as a sleeve - an excellent idea, that I will likely experiment with at some point, because I do like to tinker!  

Well, it doesn't take me long to look at a horseshoe.  The wealth of experience here tells me exactly what I wanted to know.  Glue-on for me.

Thank you all for the help!  Just one of the reasons I love this place.  Thanks!

[Biathlonman]

I'm with the others.  Not much easier then heating up some hot melt and sliding on a point.  Keep a variety of weights on hand for testing and it's a quick and easy process.  No reason to add another piece into an already easy puzzle.

[Red Beastmaster]

I had half a dozen woodies with screw in adapters that I used for shooting DART. You had to screw in the reflective blunts for the system.

They worked just fine but I would not fool with them for any other form of archery or hunting. Just way too much hanging out there to justify some ease of point switch in the field that probably would wait until I got home anyway.

[Don Stokes]

I tried that route, and ol' Dan told me to just get used to glue-on. He was right! Now I wouldn't do it any other way. The adapters are one more complication in a keep-it-simple sport.

[Pine]

I feel the glue on are just much simpler .
Less things to line up .

[Mark R]

I have used the top hat adapters with success but had to tinker to get them on the woodie acceptable to me, but you can use alot of different screw ins with them,easy as screw in screw out. I have alot of screw in broad heads which made it advantages,  otherwise I would just stay with glue ons.