high nock point

[nhbuck1]

will a lower nock point cause left and right issues? i moved my nock point to 5/8s or a tad higher on my bow lee and its shooting spot on now, is this normal for a split finger shooter to be this high?

[Blackhawk]

Maybe...I have a kodiak magnum that requires 3/4" high nock pt. for proper flight and shoot split.  I just figured it was tillering situation at the factory.

[acollins]

I am also shooting a Bob Lee. I have slowly been moving mine up to get good flight. I haven't measured it but I do bet it's close to 5/8"

[Shadowhnter]

5/8" is quite common. Nothing to worry about.

I am 5/8" to 3/4" high on every bow I own, and I do shoot split finger.

Bisch

[nhbuck1]

what if im shooting higer then where im looking raise it more?

[olddogrib]

If you're starting out most folks are going to tell you to locate it where your bare shafts are hitting at the same level as your fletched and then learn to hold accordingly while "burning a hole" in the spot.  Having said all that, quite a few experienced hunters will use an intentionally high nock, i.e. higher than would be indicated for a good tune as a tool to lower their point of impact which causes them to compensate by raising their hold in order to use their arrow tip "point on" at hunting ranges.  I'd save that little trick until several years of consistent form building, but you can get away with more vertical nock set adjustment on the high end than you think.

[Shadowhnter]

Straight arrow flight is what you are after.

If its not hitting where you are looking after that, keep practicing and work on perfecting your release/form. Tuning, and hitting the bullseye can be 2 seperate things to deal with, but you arent likely to get accuracy with an improperly tuned bow and arrow, and you arent likely to be accurate once tuned without proper form/release development, and proper form dont just happen.....it takes much work and practice, that often goes on for years. Only then can you start truely expecting arrows to land where you are looking at consistently. There are NO short cuts. If there were, everyone would be shooting trad as if its no big deal.

[nhbuck1]

my biggest issue is not being able to hold at anchor im really struggling with this

[Boneyard Bowhunter]

Moving the nock point up or down has the same effect as moving it left or right. The closer you get to the sweet spot the more energy goes into the arrow.

[Shadowhnter]

Originally posted by nhbuck1:
my biggest issue is not being able to hold at anchor im really struggling with this

I know youve said before, but what is your bow?

[nhbuck1]

bob lee sig exotic 54 at 28 which is my draw im going to try a secondary anchor point as terry desrcibed i dont think im drawing far enough, when i draw to my thumb knuckle touching my earlobe pocket where jaw meet its like an explosion pulling through the shot

[Shadowhnter]

That is an awfully heavy bow to be learning on. Id recommend normally to those just starting out, 35, or 40 lbs.

At some point you might consider getting a cheap light bow for form work.

[nhbuck1]

this is my second bow and i have been shooting for a few years, just realizing my mistakes now and picking them up and trying to get better, i shoot good with it just need to be more consistent with my anchor, hitting that earlobe pocket makes a word of a difference, i dont think i was drawing far enough before

[Shadowhnter]

Ive got 6 bows, but one is light draw and cheap, especially to work on form with! Lol! I been shooting trad for pushing 30 years (over that if you count my childhood years), but I still practice and exercise form on a light bow.

[nhbuck1]

yup i agree always go light but this is my deer bow and season is in 3 weeks so i gotta get out with it, thanks for the help guys