Want to Try Woodies.....Where to Start?

[Nala]

Hey all.

Seeing the thread where another shooter set up woodies got the first time has convinced me to go ahead and try it for myself.  I've never shot a wood arrow.  I got my first Hill style longbow but haven't got a single wood arrow in my quiver!  I think that violates some kinda law or something so please don't turn me in!

I have read that SUREWOOD shafts are the best shafts to use.  I don't know, but I want shafts that I don't have to straighten out after every shooting session.  I'm all about low maintenance.  
I shoot longbows and recurves from 44 to 48 pounds and my draw is close to 28".  Of course I don't know what spine to get.  One of the guys told the thread starter in that other thread that there are a few rules of thumb to get you close when picking the spine.  I'd like to know those rules.  I'd rather not buy a "test kit" first.  

I also don't know how to prep them, coat them, seal them and finish them.  Is there a video that goes thru the process?

Any help and advice you can give me would really be appreciated.  I need all of it I can get!!

Thank you.
Larry

[damascusdave]

I am not sure you will find that woodies and low maintenance go together which is the main reason I only have a few

DDave

[bucknut]

Tommy at Rocky Mountain Specialty Gear will set you up.  They sell exact spine, weight matched port orford cedar. you will probably need somewhere in the 60-65# shafts depending on overall length and point weight. There are numerous videos on the process, but it is quite simple. Go thru and hand straighten arrows until you can roll them on a counter top with little wobble. Repeat for 2-3 days. Sand lightly and apply Min Wax Wipe on poly.Take Steel wool or scotch brite pads and go over them between coats. (3-4) And you're good to go.

[Rough Run]

I am a recent semi-convert to wood arrows, as well.  For what it's worth, here is what I gathered, right here on Trad Gang --

Spine "rules of thumb" -
*Add 3# per inch, each inch past 28" draw.
*Add 5# per 25gr point weight over 125gr.
 (Not sure I agree with this yet, still experimenting.)
*Add 5# shelf cut to center, 10# cut past center.
*Slightly stiff is better than slightly weak.

Use this link for a "how-to" on building, i.e. straightening, prepping, staining, cresting, finishing, etc.  There are several in the "How-To" archives here, but I found this one simplest and clearest for beginning.
 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000119

I started with POC shafts, and really focused on straightness before I started finishing.  So far, they have remained surprisingly straight, with regular shooting (100-150 shots per week).  I have sitka spruce shafts ordered, just to experiment with other woods.

Hope this helps add to the info pool for you.  Good luck, and have fun!

The good ole Zwicky Eskimo and wood shaft is still deadly for deer.  I shoot Wapiti cedars, they come straight and once I get finish on them they stay straight.  I don't know where all this bent wood arrow stuff comes from,  unless they are getting mill runs or rejects from someone off ****.  Besides keeping wood arrow perfect when they come straight is easy.  Depending on your bow and head weight, 60-65 may be stiff.  I would simply have them pre tapered from either Surewood or Wapiti for 29" bop.  Give them your specs, you may find that one bow will like 50-55 pounders and another 55-60 pounders or if one is a Hill style with 125 grain points 45-50 is not out of the question..  It helps to have open options on point weight, until you know what will work for you.

[Ray Lyon]

I find Hill style closer to marked weight at 28" with 125 grain points. Add 1# per five grains over 125 grains. Add or subtract 5#'s for each inch over or under 28" draw.

[M60gunner]

Not trying to burst your enthusiasm to make wood arrows but,
they are not a one or two night job. Your going to need to straighten those shafts. Shafts that are made in OR. are going to "find themselves " in a wetter or dryer climate were you live.
There are as many finishes and ways to finish as there are arrow makers. To many choices but you can find products like polycrillic or polyethylene at local home store that work very well. How you apply it to the shaft can be anything from a brush to a dipping tube.
I would start by looking at the "how to threads" here on TradGang, lots of info from accomplished makers.

I like stained wipe on Watco Oil, but it takes three thin coats and patience.  A dry warm and breezy day help get the stuff dry, but it makes a very maintainable, durable and weather resistant finish that either Duco or fletch tape will stick to.  I do add a drop of Gorilla super glue to the end of each feather with the tape, just for fun.

[goingoldskool]

I just jumped into mine... definitely still learning the ropes and don't plan on hunting with them just yet....  maybe next year!  I had some Tru Oil left over from refinishing gun stocks and coated them 6 times....  Some folks thought that Fletch tite wouldn't stick, but it has....so far!

I also sanded with 0000 steel wool between coats.

The reason that I jumped in like I did was I have been thinking of doing it for some time and if I didn't go ahead and buy them, that would be all I would do... think about them without ever trying.

Good luck, shoot straight and God Bless,

Rodd

[Nala]

Rodd, yours was the thread I saw last night that got me thinking about trying them.

I don't mind all the "work" to get them totally done.  I think it will be kinda enjoyable seeing them go from bare shafts to beautiful arrows by my hands.

I just don't want shafts that won't stay straight.  That's what I am concerned about.

I was also hoping that I'd be able to shoot these woodies in all my bows and have them behave well.  If I can't, I'll set them up for my Hill style bow and go with it from there and only shoot them in that bow.

I also have a Bear MONTANA longbow.  Do you think the shafts I set up for my Hill style will shoot well in my Montana?  The Hill style is 47# and the Montana is 45#.  It would be great if I could get the shafts to work great in both of my longbows.  If so, I'll just leave the aluminum and carbon arrows for my 2 recurves.

Thanks all

[Gordon Jabben]

Nala, the best place to start would be to find an archer in your area that only shoots wood arrows.  Most archers would be glad to help you get started and a lot of us shoot wood.

[Tajue17]

start by calling elite arrows and have him send you a 3 arrow test kit

[Iowabowhunter]

I ordered a test kit of Surewood shafts, and I have been very impressed.

Every one in the dozen was straight, and has stayed that way through my shooting.

The tapers were perfect, very easy to install heads and nocks.

I was on the fence about wood shafts since I'd o ly ever really shot carbons, but I really like those Surewoods.

Going to order another couple dozen and put them together this winter.

[Westkyhunter]

I just recently built some spruce arrows from scratch. I'd never messed with them myself except for some kid arrows from dowels. I purchased a board from the local lumber company for $6.11 and went to work. For those interested I made them the way that's suggested in a few books. Rip down to 3/8" scare and plane the corners off til basically round. I now have five beautiful, brand new perfectly straight spruce arrows I done myself. They shoot great too. Not sure if this is an option for you or not. I have enough wood and dowels left from that board to get around two dozen arrows.