Barshaft tuning with O.L Adcock method

Elk Chaser · October 27, 2007, 06:44:00 PM

I had the good fortune to get a new ACS CX and used the O.L Adcock method of bare shaft tuning that is on his website.
To sum it up it works.
I used 2 different bows 3 arrows and 4 differing tip wrights.
Best part is I have Bare shaft hitting within 4" at 15 yds of a fletched shaft slightly right and low was the bare shaft . this is perfect per OL's instructions
Now I had My " arrow selected.
I then Took the same arrow and shot it from a 60# bow this is 10# less in weight than the ACS.
The results were exactly as per the tuning process the bare shaft was not hitting left og the Fletched meaning the arrow was too stiff.

Give it a try and you will not be disappointed.
Bill

Rico · October 27, 2007, 07:25:00 PM

What type of broadheads

Michael Peschek · October 27, 2007, 07:36:00 PM

Michael Peschek · October 27, 2007, 07:36:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Rico:
What type of broadheads

I believe he recommends only using field points for bareshaft testing.

Rico · October 27, 2007, 07:55:00 PM

Aren't the broadheads going to make a lot of difference on how the arrows fly.
What good would bareshaft tunning do other than for field points?

SteveB · October 27, 2007, 08:41:00 PM

Have you read OL method in entirity?
Your questions are answered there.

Elk Chaser · October 27, 2007, 10:01:00 PM

Sorry you do not bare shaft with broadheads
used field tips.
then you have the flight and spine of the arrow correct.

Rico · October 28, 2007, 01:54:00 AM

Thanks elk chaser I thought maybe there was away to test with broadheads, +/- a 1/4 inch and +/- a few grains to get field points perfect seems like a lot of fussing to tune broadheads which doesn't sound like it's going to be as exact.

Elk Chaser · October 28, 2007, 09:43:00 AM

there is no bareshaft tuning that I know of with broadheads

Mike Bolin · October 28, 2007, 01:55:00 PM

Rico, for me, if I have my field points bareshafting as per O.L.'s method, my broadheads shoot as well as my field points. Until I started messing around with bareshafting,I didn't realize how well an arrow could fly! Give it a try! Good luck, Mike

BillJ · October 28, 2007, 05:07:00 PM

OK stupid question. Per O.L.'s method, you have to already have some fletched arrows that fly well in order to do the bareshafting. How do you bareshaft tune a set of arrows for a bow when you don't already have a fletched set that flies well?

BillJ

Billy · October 29, 2007, 12:32:00 AM

I think you missed it Bill...the fletching is what makes a new set hit where you want,
the bare shaft tells you what the fletches are correcting for. Then you adjust your nock or spine to move the bareshafts to correct flight.
I was confused until I tried it. I got a new dozen, fletched 3 of them,inserts and points in 6. Went to the range and shot the fletched and then the bares and the arrows explained it to me.
Hope that helps.

BillJ · October 29, 2007, 10:00:00 AM

Thanks Billy - I didn't interpret it that way, but now see that makes perfect sense.

SteveB · October 29, 2007, 10:22:00 AM

Or you can use the grouping comparison by shooting fletched fp and broadheads.

Steve

Doc Nock · October 29, 2007, 10:45:00 AM

I had to print out his whole thing and bind it and take it outside when I started using OL's guide (which OL's quick to point out has been around for years and is not "his" but he made it all available in clear simple language)

Remember to do to the bare what you do to the fletched...and vice versa. As noted above, it's all about "difference between fletched (which correct some of the spine errors) and those bare which demonstrate the error...

as you progress, changing slightly one thing or another, your two come closer together.

I've not read it in a while but I don't recall 4" being "close". I had mine grouping maybe 1-2" low/right. Fletch stiffens (effect) and then once you have them hitting the same relative place, then you fletch em all, put broadheads on the one half of whole fletched kabootle and start testing again... till they all hit dead nuts!

You have to really take some time, read the website or like I did, print it and study it... then the subtleties start to come out!

It's not that hard... just takes time. And don't forget, the amount of center shot can make a ton of difference. OL shared that on the ole berger button, 1/32" made a huge diff... As does adding a tip protector, silencers to string or a bow quiver...all affects harmonics and tuning! Do it after the bow is set up the way you want to hunt or shoot it.

thinning the sideplate or adding material can do as much as changing arrow length or tip weight!

Go read it and have some fun!