Wood arrows- Taper or straight

[flyflinger]

Thanks again everyone.
Ordered a test kit from Surewood,parallel shafts.
They say the fir shafts dont taper well for points/nocks using the usual "pencil sharpener" tools. What tools have folks found to work the best? Looked at the wooden jig from 3rivers that ya use with a sander. Do these work very well?

[Tree Killer]

Originally posted by flyflinger:
Thanks again everyone.
Ordered a test kit from Surewood,parallel shafts.
They say the fir shafts dont taper well for points/nocks using the usual "pencil sharpener" tools. What tools have folks found to work the best? Looked at the wooden jig from 3rivers that ya use with a sander. Do these work very well?

I've used the wooden jig/sander combination to taper nocks and points for many dozens of arrows. I C-clamp it in place on my sander.

[slowbowjoe]

I've tapered dozens of Doug Fir shafts, as well as cherry and walnut RepArrow footings, with the little blue pencil sharpener tool (I get mine from Braveheart).

Going easy, with a sharp blade (replace when necessary-maybe a few dozen shafts), I've actually been getting very clean tapers, and long enough for my Judo's and broadheads.

[Stumpkiller]

Originally posted by flyflinger:
Thanks again everyone.
Ordered a test kit from Surewood,parallel shafts.
They say the fir shafts dont taper well for points/nocks using the usual "pencil sharpener" tools. What tools have folks found to work the best? Looked at the wooden jig from 3rivers that ya use with a sander. Do these work very well?

I rely on a Woodchuck Taper Tool.

   

[MnFn]

Surewoods Douglass Fir also, but Sitka Spruce makes a great arrow also- a little lighter.  I shoot tapered, just because my arrow maker thinks it makes a difference.

[Sawpilot 75]

I have primarily shot parallel Cedar. I have used some tapered cedar but don't really see the advantage on the bows I shoot. With that said I am switching everything over to tapered Doug Fir. I like more FOC and I like the durability and extra weight DF gives you compaired to Cedar.

[TSP]

'Straight'...keeping it simple.

[Fletcher]

The difference between tail tapered and parallel shafts is not much, but that doesn't stop me from tapering all of my shafts.  I spine and weight match them after tapering.

Flyflinger: yes, the wood taper block will work well for grinding nock and point tapers.  You will have to mess with it to get the exact angles, but once set will grind excellent tapers.

[AkDan]

Breasted ash have far and away out performed everything ive shot!  

Tapering allows faster recovery.    Not needed but it will show itself!    Read Elmer/klopstegs work 80 years ago.   Nothings changed!

[AkDan]

Stumpkiller.   Learn to shoulder your point tepers youll never look. Avk!   Other than needing a couple woodchicks to keep from having to adj it.   The adjustment to get the shoulder is very small!   Stinks swapping fromm 11/32 to 23/64 with one jig.  

I do nock tapers on a large disc sander.

[AkDan]

Stumpkiller.   Learn to shoulder your point tapers youll never look. Back!   Other than needing a couple woodchicks to keep from having to adj it.   The adjustment to get the shoulder is very small!   Stinks swapping fromm 11/32 to 23/64 with one jig.  

I do nock tapers on a large disc sander.

[AkDan]

Ps posting while on your phones dangerous! Lol. Woodchicks?!?   .  Had a hard time trying to correct the first post

[myshootinstinks]

I've spent a bundle over the years on tapered shafts and I do like them. The stated benefits  all sound logical but quite honestly I see no difference in the performance of a tapered shaft and a parallel shaft.