Does this make sense? Update

[Buckeye1977]

Thanks guys I'm gonna continue to play around with it and see what I can figure out.

[Roy from Pa]

Put some baby powder or spray some foot power on the shelf and side of the shelf window and look for fletching contact someplace. Arrow nocks fit ok?

[Buckeye1977]

Yeh they fit about the same as my other bows. Might try the powder this weekend didn't even think of it thanks

[the rifleman]

I've learned to let the bow tell me what it wants.  It knows better than any one else weighing in.  I thought 500 would work for a buddy's 50 pound Martin, but we didn't get tuned until we got to 340!  How your bow is cut to center has much to do with what arrows it will need.  Form is also key.  Poundage is only one factor.  I think you're on the right track.

[Buckeye1977]

Just wanted to give an update on my tuning. Not sure what I was doing wrong but I've settled into my gt 500's at 28.5" with a 2" foot and 175 grn point. Got it flying straight at 20 yards but still showing nock high. Have played with nock point and doesn't seem to change. My question is do you usually have some nock high with a heavy point end or is there something else I can try to get it better? Oh and THANKS to everyone so far for all your suggestions and advice!

[McDave]

Persistent nock high is usually a result of form errors, but in some (rare) cases can result from shooting a bow 3 under that is tillered for split fingers.  In either case, what is happening is that there is a true nock high when the nock is mounted high enough, which is why we recommend starting tuning at 3/4 or even 1".  Then at some point the arrow starts rebounding off the shelf, which results in a false nock high.

You need to work your nock point down the string in very small increments, maybe 1/8" at a time.  Start high enough that you see a reduction in the nock high as you work your way down the string.  At some point, moving the nock point down does not result in any further reduction in nock high, and may even increase the nock high as you lower your nock point further.  The point where lowering the nock point does not reduce the nock high is where you want to put your nock point, until you figure out how to eliminate the false nock high.

You can shoot accurately with a true nock high, which can be reliably corrected with fletching, but not with false nock high, which will result in inconsistent arrow flight.

[rraming]

Try another nocking point below nock of arrow and see if that fixes it, leave like 1/8" gap

[Buckeye1977]

Originally posted by McDave:
Persistent nock high is usually a result of form errors, but in some (rare) cases can result from shooting a bow 3 under that is tillered for split fingers.  In either case, what is happening is that there is a true nock high when the nock is mounted high enough, which is why we recommend starting tuning at 3/4 or even 1".  Then at some point the arrow starts rebounding off the shelf, which results in a false nock high.

You need to work your nock point down the string in very small increments, maybe 1/8" at a time.  Start high enough that you see a reduction in the nock high as you work your way down the string.  At some point, moving the nock point down does not result in any further reduction in nock high, and may even increase the nock high as you lower your nock point further.  The point where lowering the nock point does not reduce the nock high is where you want to put your nock point, until you figure out how to eliminate the false nock high.

You can shoot accurately with a true nock high, which can be reliably corrected with fletching, but not with false nock high, which will result in inconsistent arrow flight.

When I was messing with nock point I lowered it about 1/8" or so and it did seem to get worse so will play with it some more. Can you tell me what kinda form problem could possibly cause the nock high?

[McDave]

Do you shoot split fingers or 3 under?

[McDave]

On second thought, my previous question might be putting the cart before the horse.  Your previous posts have indicated that you have not developed consistent form.  You can't really tune arrows until you have developed consistent form.  Of course, the purpose of developing consistent form is not so we can tune arrows, but so we can consistently hit what we are shooting at.  So maybe the best advice I can give you is to find a Rod Jenkins course in your area to attend, or alternatively, to make a video and post it on the Shooting Form Forum for Arne to look at,  I really think this persistent nock high problem will go away once you have good form, and working on your form in general will do you more good than me mentioning one or two things that typically result in false nock high.

[longbow fanatic 1]

Try baby powder (or some other chalky substance) on your shelf to check if your arrow is impacting the riser as it leaves the bow. Just a thought. Also, I will echo what McDave said. If you're grouping your arrows (bare shaft) consistently, then your results are reliable. By consistently, I mean not only are your arrows grouping together but each end you shoot, the arrows are consistently high right or whatever.

[Buckeye1977]

Thanks guys. I shot some more tonight and was paying a lot more attention to my form and release and the nock high problem did seem to get better. I'm not a very patient person when it comes to this sort of thing so seems to me I just need to slow down and pay attention to every aspect of my shooting while trying to tune. My spine seems to be very close and is very consistent so with some more practice I think I'll be right where I need to be.