Need some advice on aluminums

[slowbowjoe]

I've only shot wood arrows for years. Tried carbons, but they're not for me. Starting to think about trying some aluminums, mainly because I'm guessing I could get them down below 10gpp spruce, which is about as light as I've managed with wood.

Bow is 45@28, I draw 28. My bow likes woodies with a dynamic spine of around 43-45 pounds.I'm thinking probably 1916's at 29'BOP, 125 or 145 grain points, might be close in spine, and hopefully get me down to around 400 grains arrow weight?
Also: are the nocks press-in's for the aluminums?

[creekwood]

You might even like a 2016 shaft.  The nock design will be different for different mfg shafts.  Some are pressed in and some shafts are swaged.

[David Mitchell]

My 45@28 draw bows, both recurve and longbows of the Hill variety like 2016s.  I shoot them 29 1/2" long to back of point with 125 grains up front, three fletched with 5 1/2" feathers and arrow weight is 480 grains.  I have found a 2016 shoots well out of about every bow I own--very versatile. My 1916s with 125 up front in the same length weigh in at 460 grains.  My wife's 1816s are 28" back of point, 100 grain tips, and weigh 380 grains (fletched with three 4" feathers). So maybe that gives you some place to start.

[crazynate]

I agree somewhere around a 2016 maybe even a 2013 if you can find them. The bows for have in that poundage like a 2114-2013s depending on how heavy I want to go. I shoot the 2114s with 200 up front but my 2016s @29" with 145 grain tips.

[slowbowjoe]

Helpful stuff. Looks like 1916's or 2016's could both work. My bow seems to like arrows a little onthe softer side, and I'd like to keep the length not more than 29". With that, and the weight, I'm lening toward the 1916's. The Easton Legacy's seem affordable and reliable, and I like the fact that they have a swage for nocks (just came across that on a vendor's site).

[Biathlonman]

I'm thinking 1816 would probably get you there with light points.  1916s are going to end up mid to high 400 grains in weight

[PeteA]

I have a Predator Hunter recurve 46@28. I draw 26.5. She likes 2016s cut to 29.5 with 125 up front. 2016 is one of the most vercitial and easiest to tune aluminum shafts out there.

[slowbowjoe]

Brad, I think you're right about the weights on the 1916's. Was doing the math in my head while up in the sauna and seems like they'd end up pretty close to my Doug Fir's.
1816's with 100 grains would be close, but I don't know if they'd be any lighter than spruce (which I use on occasion, and gets me down near 400 grains). can't find the weight specs on 1816's anywhwre.

[Biathlonman]

9.3/inch on the 1816...

[KyStickbow]

I shoot a 29" 1816 out of my 40# longbow. So at 29", 3 5" feathers, uni-bushing and nock, standard insert, and a 125 grain point...they weigh 440 grains.

[Biathlonman]

See if you can find some 2014 shafts, they might get you there too.

[DarrinG]

I shoot 1916's w/ 125g heads out of my 45# @ 28" (29" shaft) t/d recurve, FF string. I get excellent arrow flight, both fletched and bareshaft. With another recurve I have, which is an older model, 45# @ 28", 29" shaft, B50 string (non-FF capable), I shoot 1816's w/ same 125g head and they shoot well and bareshaft excellent.

[BOHO]

I wouldnt go below a 20 size. 19's and lower are pretty fragile and prone to bending pretty easy. You can get the weight and spine you need by adjusting the second number and tuning to the right length and point weight. Just in case you didnt know, the first number is diameter and second is wall thickness. so a 2016 will be tougher than a 2013 but will also weigh more.

[Biathlonman]

Boho, I'm not sure that the first 2 numbers really have a anything to due with toughness.  1820s are tough little buggers.

[BOHO]

I agree. IMO toughness is the last two for the wall thickness.