Wood arrow length

[nek4me]

For those shooting wood - what is your arrow length compared to your draw and what is the reason or benefit to you for your chosen length?

[Jim Calamaris]

My wood arrows are 28" BOP and my draw length is 27". I have always allowed 1" for broadhead clearance by my finger. That's the way I was taught and it works for me.

[M60gunner]

Same as Jim, but mine are 29" long for my 28" draw. It's an old school teaching from when I started back in late 50's

[dnovo]

Same here. My woods are cut 1-1 1/4" longer than my draw

My broad head arrows are bop net.  I squeeze at anchor to get the blade to just touch my finger.  A built in draw check.  Shooting right handed at game I tend to over draw and left hand I tend to under draw.   My wife tells me that it is about the same, but when I do not feel the back of the blade brush my finger, I have doubts about the draw consistencies.  My normal shot tempo is one full second right hand and one and a half seconds left handed.  My time at anchor is minimal right handed and perhaps one half second left handed when shooting at targets that are under twenty yards, the longer the shot the longer the tempo duration.  It is possible to shoot quite fast and still have draw length control that does not distract from trying to hit the mark, but it is not something that can be done at the flip of a switch.  When I make arrows for my friends I always give them an inch.

[monterey]

Mine run 29 to. 32 for a 28.25" draw.  I start at full length and sometimes cut to tune.

My only hard and fast rule of archery is "be flexible"

[Stumpkiller]

I take a 32" shaft and use my Woodchuck tool to taper both ends.  My goal is a 31-3/4" shaft with a 7/8" broadhead taper.  

I draw 29-3/4", so by the time I glue on the broadhead I have 1-1/8"" ahead of my knuckle.  Just enough room for a gloved bow hand.

[Orion]

Like several others, I cut my arrows one inch longer than my draw length.  Just don't see the need for the arrow to be longer than necessary.  

In the bow quiver, nocks on longer shafts often dig into the ground and fill with dirt when one leans the bow against a tree.  It takes more movement, or at least displays more movement, to remove the arrow from a bow quiver and get it on the string.  Longer shafts in a bow quiver also magnify bow movement when still hunting.

Longer arrows will also be heavier, which some like and some don't.  I prefer to add the weight up front with the point rather than throughout the length of the shaft.

On the other hand, longer shafts reduce the size of the gap for gap shooters so they're an advantage for them.  A big one.

[slowbowjoe]

Same. 1" longer than my draw length, give or take.
I like the idea of the back of the broadhead being a draw check, but when I tried it I found it distracted my focus on the shot.

[hitman]

I go about 1 1/4 longer than my draw length, a little excitement may give me some adrenalin .f

[woodchucker]

I cut my arrows at 30" then taper them & glue points.
Can't remember if I ever really measured to BOP, but it's about an inch longer than my 28" draw...

[slowbowjoe]

Forgot to add a couple other reasons why I go about 1" longer than draw length:

My eye is used to the 28-29" length. I don't gap, but I definitely sight with the shaft.(Gun-barreling?)

I'm usually looking to keep my arrow weight down with woods ("down" for my set up is 10gpp), and don't need any extra weight from shaft length.
Also, I end up with the FOC that I'm used to shooting.

[Pat B]

I cut my arrows at 30" for my 26" draw and have for years. A few inches hanging over shouldn't matter if that is figured into the effective spine.