stumping head

[HartHeart]

I'm searching the market for a screw-in stumping head. Problem is, I need a 250 grain or 300 grain head to match my broad heads. Does anybody know of a small game/stumping head in these weights?

[Hermon]

https://www.3riversarchery.com/the-forge-converta-blunt.html

175 grain field point and this make a 250 grain point.

[Alexander Traditional]

I've got a number of the converge a points as Hermon talked about. I thought they would be great for small game,but they weren't effective. I just use a field point to stump with myself. If you would like to try the others shoot me a message and I'll send them to you.

[TomMcDonald]

Check out the VPA SGT - they come in either 250 or 300 grains and are screw. They are dang strong.

[HartHeart]

Thanks, McDonald, that was exactly what I was looking for.

[Longtoke]

another vote for the SGT  

The very best roving/small game head IMO

puts the hurt on rabbits and stops an arrow nearly as good a judo.

[Msturm]

Yeah those SGT's are the real deal!  put a 1.25 inch footing on your carbon arrow and you have a pretty near indestructible set up!   They will take the head clean off a grouse!

   

Msturm

[ron w]

Judo point glue on with a steel adapter of the right gr. to make your total weight......works well.

[BRONZ]

Another vote for VPA SGT. I shoot the 125 and 175 gr. Great head.

[Woodpuppy]

What are y’all doing to strengthen your shafts? I’m shooting gold tip blems, and the one time I hit the rebar in a 3d target the nock end of the arrow split.

[Roadkill]

I put a 2 inch section of an aluminum shaft over the shaft and hit melt it there.  I use hexheads and hunt rabbits in the desert environment.  I had to dress my hexheads with a file, but the shafts hold up

[Roadkill]

I put a 2 inch section of an aluminum shaft over the shaft and hit melt it there.  I use hexheads and hunt rabbits in the desert environment.  I had to dress my hexheads with a file, but the shafts hold up

[Woodpuppy]

Roadkill, front and rear or just front?

[J. Cook]

I foot the front with an inch or 1.5 inch piece, then I'll add a 1/4" piece on the nock end. Makes a bomb-proof arrow.

[Snow Crow]

Woodpuppy,  Try 1/4" to 1/2" long section of aluminum shaft on nock end to reduce splits and nock blowouts.

[Woodpuppy]

Thanks!

[Tom1958]

I tried those VPA SGT and immediately started destroying carbon arrows. My theory on why that was happening was because the large outside diameter of the impact point of the tips was considerably larger than the diameter of my shaft and it put a lot of side leverage on the shaft when the tip didn't hit squarely on a stone or whatever. If the edge of the VPA SGT caught in a rock, the sideward leverage was causing the shaft to split where the insert is glued.
I've had many thousands of stump shots with my Judo and never split shafts like I did with the VPA SGT. Mine are now in a drawer where they'll most likely stay until I'm long gone.

[Stumpkiller]

With a screw-in to get that heavy you can use a Forge Converta Blunt and either a field point or flat blunt to make up a good stumping and small-game head.

       

 


I've been using Hammer (glue on) heads but I don't think the screw-ons go that heavy.

Like Tom says above - a side glance on a stump will occasionally snap the (glue-on) head at the collar because of the width of the "hooks".

[Snow Crow]

If you're the cheap sort, a wingnut or washer reamed out just right to allow a snug fit between point and insert will "snake-proof" a field point or steel blunt shot into grass, leaves and snow.  Also helps with pass throughs on soft targets like mushy stumps or dirt.