Bare Shaft tuning pics?? Anyone have any??

[cabage]

So lately i've seen quite a few "how to" threads on here.  But nothing along the lines of bare shaft arrow tuning from start to finish. Can anyone make a simple "how to" bare shaft tuning guide with pictures?  Maybe just start with some full lenth shafts to over emphasize the point and work one or two length changes into the equation?  

I know that I am not the only one here that is a little confused, or cloudy on this subject.  If I knew how to do it right I would make the tutorial my self but I know you guys are creative so lets see it.  

Thanks
Andy

[drewsbow]

Andy : Check out OL 's bow tuning page , all you need to know right there. He is a sponser and in the sponsers list @the top of page. Hope this helps Drew

[katman]

OL's site explains it very well. Basically pick point weight and start full length shaft should start out very weak, flying downrange knock left point right (arrow looks like it is flying almost sideways) and hitting right of the fletched shafts. As you shorten the shafts you should see them slowly fly with less and less nock left. I prefer to keep the bareshaft slightly weak ie. hitting about 1-2 inches right of fletched shafts at twenty yards. Got mine all tuned right now so now picture show available. This is for a right hand shooter. Just try it and you will see the results. Remember to shorten carbon no more than 1/4" at a time until close then I trim 1/8" at a time, carbon reacts very quickly to a length change.

[Alex.B]

yes, OL's site is great. but check this: how does one tune the very first bare shafts one gets, since there are no fletched shafts to compare them with????  :confused:    :confused:        

[drewsbow]

I put fletching on three and leave three bare and tune with them. Once I am happy I will cut and fletch the rest of them up and shoot.  Drew

[**oneshot**]

You need to fletch a few in order to bareshaft test.  You make your adjustments based on impact points between both fletched and unfletched arrows.

[cabage]

yes i have been to OL's site and it makes sense. (i even have a field copy i keep in my bow case, all 18 pages)  I just wanted to see how some others got their groups to work.  I saw on another thread where guys had the bareshafts sticking in the target just like thier fletched ones.  I must be doing something wrong because mine are still knock left quite a bit.  I borrowed a digital camera and am going to take some pictures when i go shoot tomorrow.

[katman]

Like I said earlier I usually keep my bareshaft slightly weak and yes the shaft leans a LITTLE (nock left) in the target. Adding fletching will stiffen the arrow and if I make and error shooting it is either drawing short or a poor release both causing less energy to go to the arrow, so the slight weak shaft helps compensate for my poor shooting. If your bareshafts are nock left quite a bit your to soft. need to shorten a little at a time. Make sure you set the nock point first as it effects the arrow also.
I recently tried adding a little electrical tape (weighing it the same weight as three 5" shields) and wrapping it around the rear of the bare shaft and tuned so bare/taped and fletched shafts hit the same/both straight. This is my first experiment with this and it seems to be working fine with the Axis shaft, going to tune some MFX an CX Heritage next and try this again, just to make sure it consistently works with different carbon shafts. If I remember I will take pics as I go and post for you. Just waiting for the MFX's to show up.

[cabage]

Ok here we go.  This was the best group I could put together last night.   These were from twenty yards.  At this distance my judgment of height isn't spectacular, but I know left or right isn't too bad.  2018 gamegetter II, 145gr field pt. 32inch arrow to bop.  5inch shild cuts with as much right wing helical as i could get.  My "intended" target was the white x on the left target.  The fletched shafts wobbled a little, but went where I was aiming.  The bare shafts seemed to be on track untill they hit about 11yards and made a swerve to the right.  They were about 18 inches right of the fletched shafts.  Height was consistent with the fletched ones.  They seem a little week to me.  Tonight i'm gonna cut off about a half inch and see where we go.  It was interesting that the longer the shot was, the straighter the arrow would stick into the target.  Am I correct in assuming that the arrow needs more time to stabalize with out fletchings?        

[Tom A]

I just look at the arrow point. Forget about the nock. For a right hand shooter if your arrow points are hitting left of where you are aiming you are too stiff. If they are hitting right your too weak. I have best bare shaft results when shooting past 25 yards.

[WestTnMan]

Excuse my ignorance but who is OL? I don't know who or what to look for in the sponsor list. I would like to read it.

[cabage]

Here is his web address  www.bowmaker.net
I'm pretty new to this game so thats all I can tell you.  The other guys could give you more insight.

[katman]

WestTnMan OL Adcock, bowyer who makes the ACS CX bow, as stated earlier link above is to his site or A&H Archery on the sponsor list.

[cabage]

Here is where i'm at now,  30.5 inch shaft.  I shot out of my head for these six arrows (not my normal group, but i'll take it any day!)
I am sure that the bare shafts being higher than the fletched ones was human error.

     

   

[sndmn11]

i want to see something if you would.  without changing anything else could you raise your nock point an 1/8" and take pictures of the resultes?  more for my benefit than anything else.  thanks

[cabage]

Originally posted by sndmn11:
i want to see something if you would.  without changing anything else could you raise your nock point an 1/8" and take pictures of the resultes?  more for my benefit than anything else.  thanks

I'll see what i can do!

[DEERSLAYER1961]

20 yards when finished tuning.


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