Wood Arrow Issue

[The Vanilla Gorilla]

I shoot 5/16 40-45lb POC arrows out of my 50lb longbow. And I shoot them well. Recently, I had a guy pick me up some 40-45's in 11/32.  We bareshafted them at full length with a 125gr fieldpoint and they all hit nock right. Too stiff.  

Why did this happen?  My longbow isn't centershot, of course, but am I wrong to think that 11/32 shafts should basically shoot the same as a 5/16 if they are both the same spined the same?  My 5/16 40-45's shoot excellent...why don't the 11/32's?

Thanks guys..
Cam

[Jeremy]

The larger diameter shaft puts the center of the arrow (diameter) farther away from the center of the bow.  Essentially, that makes your bow *less* center shot than before, necessitating a weaker spine.  The extra 1/32" makes a considerable difference.

[NoCams]

Jeremy,
It would be only a 1/64", not 1/32". A 11/32 shaft is only a 1/32" larger TOTAL over a 5/16. That would be 1/64" per side. I am still a rookie, < 2 yrs experience, but would 1/64" make that much diff ?

nocams

[aromakr]

Cam:
I think the key to your problem is you said "you bareshafted them FULL LENGTH" 40-45's full length if 31" BOP will spine 25-30#. Diameter of the shaft will have a minor effect but you are way under spined at full length. When you are that far under spined you can't go by how they hit.
You did not say what your draw length was or how long you normally cut your arrows.
Keep in mind the industry standard is 28" and spines are expressed at 28". Every inch longer than 28 the spine of the shaft decreases by 5# and coversely every inch less than 28" the shaft stiffenes 5#
Bob

[The Vanilla Gorilla]

Bob..

Good point. My draw length is just a shade over 28 inches. I prefer to have an arrow thats as long as I can get away with, and still have good flight.

I usually bareshaft at full length so I don't cut off too much the first try.  

So...should I maybe try cutting one down to about..say 29.5" and start bareshafting from there?

Cam

[aromakr]

Cam:
And I don't understand why you want an arrow as long as you can "get away with". Why not cut them to 1" longer than your draw length and select the correct spine and forget about bareshafting! With wood arrows you do not need to bare shaft. Wood shafts are spine specific you can get them in any spine you want with in reason, unlike carbons where you only have 3-4 choices.

 As far as I'm concerned bareshafting is the worst thing to happen to the wooden arrow industry, it teaches nothing but confusion. If you will follow some basic rules to shaft selection, you can select a shaft cut it to the desired lenght and make it into quality arrows.
Bob

[Jeremy]

Nocams, I meant 1/32" difference in total diameter.  Didn't want to confuse anyone by switching to radius, and yes, 1/64" does make a difference.  I had to drop down 5# in spine and leave the arrows a tad longer to get 'em flying well when I switched from 5/16" to 11/32" on one of my selfbows.

Bob, I still diagree with you on bareshaft tuning, but to each his own  

[The Vanilla Gorilla]

Bob..
 
What I meant by getting the longest arrows I can get away with. I have arrows that fly like champions that are so short the tips don't stick past the riser at full draw. I also have arrows of the same spine that stick out 2 inches past the riser that fly perfect as well. I prefer the latter of the two...

I'll cut these arrows down to 1" past my 28" and call them square. I agree with you about bareshafting being confusing. I've had good luck bareshafting with aluminums and carbons, but I'm new enough into the wood arrow realm that I don't know whats right and whats wrong, though. (And with a community with 12K members, there's a lot of opinions.)

Thanks!

[Orion]

I agree with what aromakr said.  Find myself agreeing with you quite a bit, Bob.  Vanilla G, one other thing.  Do you have a spine tester?  Just because they're sold as 40-45# doesn't mean they actually are.  Also, the 11/32s are likely a little heavier physically, which also has the effect of decreasing the dynamic spine.

[aromakr]

Jeremy:
A lot of people disagree with me so you are not alone! I'm from the old school, having made arrows inexcess of 50 years. I usually think if it ain't broke don't fix it! And the spine standard ain't broke. I believe you will find in time that wood arrows need not be as precise in spine as you might believe, and this is especially true with the modern bow designs that cut the shelf too or past center. Example I have one client shooting a 74# longbow that is cut past center shooting arrows spined 130# plus at his arrow length, they shoot like darts.
Bob