I shoot maybe 15% modern and 85% Trad. Tuning and keeping a recurve in tune is a pure joy in it's simplicity by comparison
You need a bow square, a bow stringer, and if you use brass nocks points, a nock pliers. Many, myself included, use tie-in nock points, thus eliminating the need for nock pliers. I use aluminium T type bow squares. I leave one by my bow rack, one or two in my tackle box, and never travel w/o one.
You have two adjustments to deal with, brace height and nock height. You adjust brace height by twisting the string up or down. Nock point adjustment is the same as on modern bows. You move it up/down to eliminate porpoising and achieve the best arrow flight.
All of my recurves tune at a brace height of 8" to 8.5" and a nock point of +3/8 to +4/8". As they are all 50-55 lbs, I use the same arrow with all, and set them up with elevated rests. This greatly simplfies tuning and logistics.
Like with my compounds, once I achieve my desired tune, I write down the brace height (with a compound it's top & bottom tiller)
and nock point height.
When I string up one of my recurves, I simply use a bow square to check these measurements before I shoot. If the string has stretched a bit, it's a simple matter to twist it up to it's proper brace height.
When you put on a new string (which I do every year) it takes a while to stretch and break in.
I twist it to the proper brace height, add the nock point, then leave the bow strung until the string stabilizes. This takes 7-10 days or so. I check it daily and add twists as need until the string stabilizes. I shoot the bow every day during this period, checking the brace height and adding twists as needed after every practice session.....