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Author Topic: Arrow set up  (Read 1133 times)

Offline Davo

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Arrow set up
« on: November 06, 2007, 12:18:00 AM »
I just got started this year with traditional so I don't have everything yet.  I have never tuned a recurve.  My arrows fly relatively strait, hit the target square and consistency is from my errors.  My wheel bow I always shot muzzies 100 grain.  Am  I risking poor shot if I stay with that size for this year on a 48 pound bow with a 29 inch draw 2016 arrows.  My next choice was a set of magnus two blades 140 grain but not sure how difficult tuning is with them or what to watch for short of poor accuracy.
I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I expect the same from them."  The Duke

Offline Scott J. Williams

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Re: Arrow set up
« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2007, 09:00:00 AM »
Since you have recently arrived, you are aware of the importance of FOC.  Forward of Center balance point of arrows.

It is simple physics that is often overlooked by archers of all stripes.  It simply states that the bulk of the weight of the missle, arrow in this case, should be at the front of the arrow. If the weight shifts to the middle or further back, the arrow will become less stable, and if it is less than the rear of the projectile, it will want to switch ends. My FOC is best when it is 17 percent forward of center min. and 19 percent max.  

You and I are shooting the same arrow, at nearly the same length.  I am shooting a bow six to seven pounds heavier, and my arrows carry 175 grain heads.  

I know that my arrows are flying as well as I can get them, because I have bare shaft tuned them.  Due to the lighter draw weight you are shooting, and no two archers are the same, I would suggest that you may want at least try the Magnus.

It may take a little more than just screwing them on the arrows,  tuning a bow requires attention to a lot of detail.  Brace height, nocking point location, etc...That information is available elsewhere on this site.

Mr. Addock, as sharp a guy as you will find, suggest that you find the widest two blade head you can find, and field points of the same weight.  He suggest that you shoot your field points, and then the broadheads.  You will then raise and lower you nocking point, adjust you brace height until you get the two hitting at the same point.  Which ever method you choose will work.

Remember, just because we are shooting a simple bow doesn't mean that we don't have to tune.  

Keep in touch....Good Shooting!!!
Black Widow SAV Recurve 60inch "Ironwood" 62@28
Black Widow PLX longbow 62inch "Osage" 52@26

Offline Davo

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Re: Arrow set up
« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2007, 03:01:00 PM »
I agree front of center is crucial used same technique on compounds.  I will go with the magnus and the heaviear practice heads.  I will be using a two blade.  When you say adjust brace height I assume you mean doing it by twisting the string and I also assume that would affect speed of arrow for flatter trajectory? I don't recall what adjusting knock point will due someone will have to clue me in.
I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I expect the same from them."  The Duke

Offline Scott J. Williams

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Re: Arrow set up
« Reply #3 on: November 06, 2007, 05:20:00 PM »
Davo,
     Your brace height is important in two planes, one is to find the "sweet spot" where the bow is the most silent, and the place you get some of the best proformance, the other thing to remember is that you can control left and right impact by using the brace height.

Nocking point is important to get the best launch, it will need to be adjusted to control, nock high and nock low.  You must be careful, because a nock too high can give a false reading, due in part to the arrow banging against the shelf and then kicking up.
Black Widow SAV Recurve 60inch "Ironwood" 62@28
Black Widow PLX longbow 62inch "Osage" 52@26

Offline Davo

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Re: Arrow set up
« Reply #4 on: November 06, 2007, 09:02:00 PM »
Scott you will need to slow down a bit for me.  I am not sure what the sweet spot is or how to look for it.  I am shooting off a leather shelf which so far works well.  80% of my shots are high. Sometimes my groups are touching but still high. I did force myself to not only look lower on the target( i beleive that is what is meant by gap) and physically lower the bow angle as well.  Currently I am only shooting 100 gr heads.  That will change tomorrow if I can find heavier ones.  I moved my anchor up to my middle finger and slightly leaned my head and eyes into the string. So still improving and still shooting. I guess I am using gap method.  I am not sure what you mean by a false reading with the knock high or low.  I set the knock with a bow square and check my brace height each day I shoot.  The process of shooting and tuning a compound or recurve can't be that different is it. If your rest ( which is what I believe you mean by sweet spot) is left or right you will fishtail, if your knock point is high or low it will impact flecthings canted up or down. Is that the jist of it or am I way off.  Let me know if my reasoning is correct.
I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I expect the same from them."  The Duke

Offline fyrfyter43

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Re: Arrow set up
« Reply #5 on: November 07, 2007, 06:05:00 AM »
By "a false reading with the nock high or low", Scott means that it is possible to adjust your nock point too low, and the arrow will kick off the shelf and make it appear as if your nock point is too high.

When Scott mentioned the "sweet spot" in regards to brace height, he was talking about the brace height where the bow shoots the quietest/smoothest. Try adjusting brace height about 1/4 inch at a time and find where your bow shoots the best.

Here's a great source of info on tuning your bow.  http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm
"In the joy of hunting is intimately woven the love of the great outdoors. The beauty of woods, valleys, mountains, and skies feeds the soul of the sportsman where the quest of game only whets his appetite." ~ Saxton Pope

Offline Davo

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Re: Arrow set up
« Reply #6 on: November 07, 2007, 11:39:00 PM »
Oh. I set my knock about 1/4 above zero off my bow square does that sound about right.  I get a little nervous thinking about adjusting where it shoots best.  When I pay attention to what I am doing and take my time I can get my fletchings to touch now at 15 yards.  I don't want to change until I know what I am changing.  My heads are undersize but I am front of center and arrow flight seems strait. I bought some magnus snuffers today.  They only carried 125 so I thought I would try and worse case I would add a some weight to the front.  I would say on average I get a 4 inch group about 70% of the time now at 15 yards and when I don't it is my fault as best I can tell. My goal is 100% 5 inch kill zone out to 25 yards
I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I expect the same from them."  The Duke

Offline jrchambers

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Re: Arrow set up
« Reply #7 on: November 11, 2007, 07:48:00 PM »
if your arows are not kicking up or down than your nock point is good.  measure your brace height write it down then mess with it you can alwasy go back, you might be plesantly suprised in how smooth your bow realy can shoot. as far as your goal.  i would set it much higher you could reach that in no time.  think about hitting a spot the diamiter of your shaft and then stuffing the next one right down the middle of your other arow.  if this does happen it ruins a shaft but feels really good.

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