longbow tuning frustration-SIMPLE SOLUTION!

[Mike Bolin]

I guess I am realy wanting to blow off some steam more than I am looking for help, but here goes! I got my new Yellowstone 3 pc. and it is beautiful! I am having trouble getting this puppy tuned. It has two sets of limbs, but for now I am concentrating on the 54#@28" set. The bow is cut approx. 1/16" shy of center and I have tried 60-65# cedars with 125 and 140 points, Beman 400s with 100 grain brass adapters and 200 grain points and Goldtip 55/75s with 100 grain brass adapters and 200 grain points....all are 29" to bop. They are all flying stiff and this baffles me a bit. I bareshafted a Vapor 3000 with a 200 gr. point and it also flew stiff.
I am thinking that my best move will be to paper tune, although I can usually get where I need to be with bareshafting. It's frustrating 'cause I usually can have a bow tuned in an hour! I have some more shafts in some differents spines coming my way later this month and I'm sure I'll get it right eventually, I was just hoping to be able to hunt with this bow during the late season! Thanks for tolerating my rant! Mike
UPDATE(DUH!!)-with the 54# limbs on tonight, I took 3 cedars spined 50-55 and shot the Yellowstone. Results-nice tight group and what appeared to be perfect arrow flight! I will have to get someone to watch the arrow flight for me tomorrow evening, but from what I could tell they are flying great. I also picked up a few 55-60 spined arrows from another friend to try with the 57# limbs. Believe it or not, this is the first bow I have owned that I needed arrows in the same spine weight as the bow weight! All is good and at least I have somewhere to start to get "fine tuned". Thanks to all for the suggestions and encouragement. Mike

[JRY309]

Carbons can be frustrating to tune on a longbow not cut to center.What is your draw length,is it 28" ? I have had carbons that were cut about 1" past my draw and I couldn't get them to fly good no matter how much weight I added up front.I draw 27" and my Green Mountain Classic is 61#@27 and it uses 55-60 cedars the best.And some of my bows require a slightly stiffer spine then the weight of the bow.The shorter you cut a carbon the spine stiffens up quicker then using a lighter point.Carbons are availible in fewer spines then wood or aluminum,with carbons start with a full length shaft and adjust the spine by trimming it down alittle at a time.I draw 27" and most of my carbons usally end up 29.5" to 31" long.Some longbows to get the correct spine with a carbon it usally ends up to light of a shaft weight.The Vapor 3000 you had that flew stiff,how long was it? I've found that carbons on longbows not cut to center can be unforgiving if you get a bad release.Some of my longbows I've gone back to aluminum and wood for them,that is what has worked for me on some of my bows.When I get one thats getting tuff to tune I just leave it for another day and try again later to get it tuned.

[Mike Bolin]

JRY309, I draw 28". I am getting some woodies in different spines and I hope to stick with woodies out of this bow. All of the arrows shafts I shot today were 29" to bop. With my old Widow LAG longbow, I can shoot about any arrow I pick up, but it is cut an 1/8" past center. I think the best thing for me to do is put this bow away until after this deer season and then get real serious about it come mid-January. Thank you for the input! Mike

[robtattoo]

If it's any help. The carbons you've been trying are way too stiff anyway. I'm drawing 62# at my 30" draw & shoot MFX 400s & GT 5575s. To get good flight at my weight I need to leave them full length with 100gn inserts & 200gn points.
Try the GT 3555s cut to 29" with 50gn inserts & 125 points. They should be somewhere near.
For woodies cut to 29" you'll want somewhere in the region of a 55# spine with 125gn up front, or put 200gn on the front of a 60# wood & give that a try.

[Mike Bolin]

Rob, I am trying to dig up a couple of 35/55s to try. Funny thing is that the 400s shot great from my 54# MOAB. Well, every bow is different but this one ain't gonna get the best of me! Mike

[kawika b]

try raising your brace height a bit and see,,,what kinda string ya got on it too?

[Mike Bolin]

kawika b- I believe it is d97.........I know it is some type of fast flight material. Our season is out until Saturday, so I've got a few evenings to play around with the brace height ect. Wish me luck>>>>----------->Mike

[Mike Bolin]

updated my original post! Mike

[kawika b]

probably the difference in shelf clearance,,, i hear wapiti's are like that too.

[aromakr]

Mike:
Your MOAB is cut past center, the yellowstone is less than center, thats the difference. The Yellowstone should shoot to bow weight. The MOAB will need stiffer spines.
Bob

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

I own a MOAB. It's not cut to center, let alone past center.

[hormoan]

Hi Mike

     I have found going from a center cut riser to a non center cut. It takes me awhile to adjust. Have you been shooting fletched also, along with the bare shafts?
     You are left handed and are use to a center cut bow. You are going to be shooting right of center. Until your bow hand ajusts, to the impact change. So if not shoot some fletched arrows until you are shooting center of target left\\right. Then bareshaft tune, hope that helps ya. You can always send me your left handed bows. That have a issue, I'll hang onto them til they are trained.    :D    


So now help me, I've been up and down my string with the nock point like a yo yo. Way high to zero height. And am shooting 6" low at 20 yards with bareshafts at best. I can get good flight at 1/2" high on the nock. So I guess I'm going to give up trying to get the bare shafts up with the fletched. The bow is tillered 3 under which is the way I shoot.


 Why                


           Your fellow lefty Brent