Bear tuning problems

[doeboy]

I'm new to the game, so bear with my questions. I am shooting a Bear Grizzly, 50 # @28 inches and my draw length is 29 inches. I am shooting a 31" 55-75 gold tip with a 145 grain field point, 50 grain brass insert and another 50 grains of weight tube in the front half of the arrow. 5 ½ inch magnum fletching with a helical. I shoot off the shelf with a Velcro pad on the shelf and riser, cock feather out. My brace height is set at 7 1/2 inches per the company spec., I shoot 3 fingers under with one nock. New string. I am not able to get good arrow flight from my current set up. I have read a couple of books and have researched this site to learn as much as I can but I’m still stuck.
 
When I bare shaft tune my bow, I can not get away from a “nock right” hit at the target, even before I added the extra weigh to the shaft. Do I have to make the shaft heavier? or use a longer shaft?  

When my arrow leaves the shelf, the arrow is rubbing the Velcro down to the adhesive and is marring a “line” on my shafts. It’s also tearing up my one feather? Not the cock feather? Should I use a different type/style/size of feather?

When I shoot my fletched arrows I get “better” flight but still not good.

How do I tell if my bow is “cut to center”? How do I tune it to make the arrow fly better?

The only other problem I have is my own personal form, which I’m not sure is good or bad but I’m leaning to the bad side just because I am new to trad. gear. Been on training wheels for 25 years! I can work on my form but I’m looking for a better flying arrow in the mean time. I like the carbons because I can miss a lot and not waste too many shafts. Any advice/tips would be appreciated. pulling my hair out.

[Bowferd]

I have been experiencing the same problem since going down in weight to 50# range. I added 100 gr brass inserts to the front and 200 gr field tips in the 5575's and it has helped immensely. The 5575 are just a bit stiff for my new bows, so I am now trying to work with 3355's and XX75 2016's and 2018's.
I also have switched to shooting cock feather in on my fletched shafts and it seems to have helped.
Fred

[Jeremy]

Sounds like your arrows are still too stiff (you shoot right handed?)  You can add more point weight, increase the shaft length or go with the 3355s.  Stiff shafts will cause that type of wear on the sideplate.
A nock point that's too low would cause that type of feather wear.  If you're canting a low nock point can look like a "nock right" at the target.  
If the nocks are too tight on the string (and if you're using the factory string I'm betting they are) it'll cause all sorts of problems.
Personally, I don't look at nock orientation in the target.  The target affects that just as much as the arrow flight and a less than stellar release certainly affects it.  I look at where the fletched and bare shafts group in relation to each other.

[Jeremy]

Oh, I meant to add, "Good luck and Welcome!"

[carphunter100]

7.5 brace height on a bear bow is to low. I have 4 bear bows and the best arrow flight is when my brace height is 8 to 8.5 I have 2 Super Kodiaks 1 Kodiak Mag. and a Bear T.D. I shoot 1916 or gold tip 3555 out of all of them. with 125 heads and a 100 gr. brass insert in the gold tips. Try your brace height at 8 to 8.5 Either shaft I shoot is 480 to 485 total weight.