PAPER TUNING

[rdrace]

I am going to paper tune for the first time I am starting with brand new arrows that have not been cut or fletched. I understand that you stand about 10 feet away and shoot thru paper and keep cutting down the arrow until you get a perfect bullet hole. I shoot a 55 lb long bow and I want to shoot a 125 grain tip the arrows i got are carbon and weigh 9.4 grains a inch so does that mean i need to get the arrow and 125 grain tip close to 550 grains or keep cutting the arrow until i get a perfect bullet hole with a 125 grain tip than i can flecth the arrows up and i sholud have the perfect set up than. Please let me know if that is correct or give some pointers I am new at shooting a longbow but love shooting it I shoot every day after work for at least a hour, I can't put it down I just want the perfect set up.

[McDave]

You might want to bare shaft tune the arrows first.  This topic has been covered on this forum, but you can also check Ol Adcock, who has a pretty comprehensive discussion under "bow tuning" at  http://bowmaker.net/index2.htm  

Most traditional archers I know are satisfied with the results of bare shaft tuning, but I have read posts from some who paper tune.  My impression is that paper tuning is a technique that works best when shooting from a center-shot bow with a release aid.  I'm sorry, I didn't mean to lead you astray if you really want to paper tune your arrows, and I'm sure there are members here who will advise you how to do it.

[snag]

I think paper tuning is ok for aluminum because they don't flex as much as wood or carbon. I have paper tuned 2018s through a modern day recurve cut to center. But because of the shooters paradox it is not a good way of tuning arrows through other types of bows. I was able to, with a good release, "bullet hole" my arrows at 5ft. and at 15ft. But I usually rely on bare shafting.