favorite 3D shaft

[wasapt]

I am considering lightening my arrow weight and draw weight for 3D shoots. I want to drop to 45-50lb for my draw weight and keep my arrow weight in the mid to high 300gr range. Now I shoot 55lb and use a 445gr carbon from my Das Dalaa. If I stay with Easton shafts, I'm looking at the lightspeed 3D shaft. Any comments?

[BLACK WOLF]

I personally like to use the same equipment I hunt with to compete with...but...if I was to choose equipment specifically to compete with...I would choose equipment that would increase my potential of getting a higher score.

The first thing that comes to mind are larger diameter arrows. Ya know...line cutters.

Ray  

[Mark Hedges]

Originally posted by BLACK WOLF:

The first thing that comes to mind are larger diameter arrows. Ya know...line cutters.

Ray      

I think that for 3d you are much better served by light arrows than by fat arrows.  Fat aluminum arrows are heavy, and fat carbon arrows are expensive and fragile.

The easton lightspeeds are OK - I use them.  I would use Beman ICS hunters if they just made them a little longer - the lightspeeds are fragile.

Mark

[BEN]

i use the same arrow I hunt with. Just my opinion, but why practice all summer with an arrow that isn't close to what you're going to put a broadhead on?    

Ben

[BLACK WOLF]

Originally posted by Mark Hedges:
I think that for 3d you are much better served by light arrows than by fat arrows. Fat aluminum arrows are heavy, and fat carbon arrows are expensive and fragile.

Mark

I agree to an extent...but if you can have a light, fat arrow...you have the best of both worlds for 3D competition.

As far as durability...I'm sure Easton's FatBoys aren't made for stump shooting or hunting. I can't imagine them breaking or getting damaged by just shooting them into 3D targets. Their made with a specific purpose and that purpose is to cut lines for target shooting.

I see that as an advantage in competition.

Do you think Fatboys are really that fragile?

Ray  

[BLACK WOLF]

Originally posted by BEN:
Just my opinion, but why practice all summer with an arrow that isn't close to what you're going to put a broadhead on?      

Ben

Good question. For an archer who aims Instinctively, it would not be something I would suggest unless they are extremely gifted or are limiting their shots to 15yrds. or under...but for an archer who uses a conscious aiming techinique...it can be easier switching back and forth as long as they know their gaps or aiming references for a specific bow and arrow combination.

Ray  

[BLACK WOLF]

The weight of a Fatboy 500 arrow shaft at 29" is 206 g.

Put feathers, insert, 75g. point and nock on there and it will probobally be close to 310g.

I don't know how much is hype or how much of it is reality...but Easton claims that Fatboys are "The number one carbon arrow for IBO & ASA professional shooters."

Ray  

[SHOOTO8S]

I shot "fat" carbon shafts for a few years, in fact the last time I won the world I was shooting CE CXL 150's..but as a 3D shafts their a double edged sword. Shooting in groups with average shooters, I felt fat line cutters were good for 4-6 pts on a 40 target 3D course....however when shooting with above average shooters, who most times stayed in the 10 or 11 ring, you lost 4-6 pts per 40, with glance outs from crowded scoring rings and oversized shafts.

[BLACK WOLF]

Great info Rod. I was wondering how much that would play a factor in it.

That definitely does seem like a double edged sword...especially if a group of guys are fighting for space in the 11 ring.

I'm curious...how many guys shoot together in those competitions you've been in.

Ray  

[Sam McMichael]

I shoot the same arrows in 3D as I hunt with for two reasons. One,is that the 3D is primarily a means trying to stay sharp for hunting, so using the hunting rig all year makes sense. Second, I'm not much of a tinkerer or a technician.  Once I get that sucker shooting good, I don't change anything until I notice its not shooting good any more. Also, I shoot cedar and just don't really know how to make a lot of fine adjustments.