could this be a form problem?

[TxMoon]

I am shooting a 55# bow with GT 55/75 arrows I have been trying to bare shaft tune and  I still am getting a left nock tip right and I dont have any more arrow to cut it is all the way up to the riser. It has to be something I am doing wrong but what? is this a form problem?    :confused:

[SHOOTO8S]

TX...whats you draw lenght?

 It could be a form issue, but without seeing you shoot, its near impossible to be certain.

One thing to always consider when a bareshaft appears weak and trimming the shaft doesn;t show any improvemnet, is that the shaft was stiff to begin with and more trimming increased the dynamic spine to the point, its htting the sight window of you bow, which kicks the nock end of the shaft to the left and gives a false weak reaction....which well may be the case with a 55/75 unless you have a long draw or left the arrow full lenght, before bareshafting.

[Soilarch]

Can't help with form, as I'm still trying to learn also.

But:
Tip weight?  How heavy are now, and can you lighten it?

Sideplate?  Have you tried making it thicker or "building it out"?

String?  If you're using FF switching to dacron may help.  If there's nothing on your string you may try to weight it down with some liberal application of silencers (that's probably a long shot).

Or your form is off.  But like I said, can't help there. That list is in order of what I'd try.

[TxMoon]

My draw is only 28 1/8" That might be the case I just dont know I have shot so much and got so mad that now my arms are sore from shooting to much now I am thinking I might be over bowed at 55#'s ,. I sure let this get the best of me   :mad:   @!

[TxMoon]

This is where it all started, my bow maker and I were talking on the phone and he asked about my string, he sent me a new one just like the old one. I put everything on the new one just like the old and here I am!
I told him I shoot a 125 gr tip and he also sent me some 250gr tips that made it worse then I go to my 125 and its better but still nock left.

[O.L. Adcock]

Txmoon, What if you knew the best shooters with the best tuned equipment can't shoot a shaft "straight" most of the time? There is 2 ways to bare shaft tune...One is the "kick" method you are using..And the other is the planing method. Quirks in your form, be it bow hand or release hand, bow tiller, ect...will cause an arrow to "kick"...None will you fix with tuning methods and if it appears you do, odds are they are too stiff and will show in the form of flyers and poor broadhead flight.

The planing method looks at where bare shafts and matched fletched shafts "group" in relation to each other. Nothing in your form will cause bare shafts to group one place and fletched shafts off somewhere else...Only tuning issues will do that So it seperates the two. This explains it in further detail:   http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

Meanwhile, odds are you did as Rod suggests, you made the problem worst by cutting the shafts. A fellow should never cut until varified with point weight....O.L.

[longbow1]

I'm with OL, I've been using the planning method for a long time with great success. For youre setup I would need to know how close to center your bow is cut. I should be able to get you in the ballpark. I thing to remember is when youre ready to barshaft, make sure youre fully rested and shooting indoors or outdoors on a calm day, no wind. Good Luck

[TxMoon]

I Just Love this site everyone has given me the best advise and right on the money! #1 I was out side with a good wind Dah. wanting to get to the woods pushing my  self after work stressed and tired. I think most of it is the operator "THE shooter".

OL just hit something the reason I was calling my bow maker was bow tiller. Because when I put a tape on it it was off like 1/4" or so from where it suppose to be from what he said. That is why he sent a new string thinking a strain in it might have broken? Now wondering if this is my problem?

[TxMoon]

Longbow1,,,  I have a center shot tool that I use on my compound would that work the same? (stupid question)

[longbow1]

I'M NOT FAMILIAR WITH THAT TOOL, BUT IF ITS USED TO FIND CENTER ON A COMPOUND IT SHOULD WORK.

[O.L. Adcock]

TxMoon, I assume you have the brace height set for the least noise/vibration or at least in the middle of the bowyers recommended range? Tiller is the difference in strength between top and bottom limbs. Most measure it at the fades 90 degrees to the string. The bottome limb should be even to 1/4" less then the top, most of the time closer to 1/8" to 1/4" then zero unless it's tillered for 3 under. All those differences make is a slight nock point different and not a big deal unless it's outside those ranges. STRINGS won't effect the tiller!

Not sure what you are trying to do with the centershot gauge? The best starting point is nock an arrow then eyeball the string down the center of the limbs. At the same time see where the arrow tip is in relation to the string. If you are right handed, the arrow tip should be left of the string with the right edge of the arrow tip even with the string or about 1/2 shaft diameter further left. Contrary to what many think we do not want a bow shot with fingers to be adjusted "centershot". Close to the above starting point will be the most forgiving to our errors. Closer to center will require a higher spine and will have less shaft clearance, therefore less room for error. Further away from center needs less spine and will be a bit touchier to spine but I'd rather have it too far from center then too close.

Play with it and see what you got...Just got to be more stubborn then the bow!   ....O.L.

[SHOOTO8S]

Originally posted by O.L. Adcock:

Play with it and see what you got...Just got to be more stubborn then the bow!       ....O.L.

Amen! Whats your saying O.L....beat them into submission ???   :D