The NEW Point-of-Aim from Todd L. Pearson

[K. Mogensen]

Picked up a short "book" on this and would like to try it. I was curious to know if any of you have tried it. It is similar to the Old Point-of-Aim but you aim before you draw the bow. You place the tip of you arrow on the vitals (or gap aim) then quickly draw back to the FRONT of your face. (I have a hard time with this, it says to anchor directly under and in front of the eye, base of you thumb touching your upper lip) This keeps your point/nock/eye alignment straight. then you go from looking at the point to looking at the target and then pop your fingers open quickly in a sort of dead release. It is supposed to give you "bow bullet" accuracy out to 25+ yards. My problem is, I can't even group past 15. Have any of you tried this or should I go back to good ol' instinctive?

Hope this is the right sub-forum,

Thanks!

[McDave]

After making every conceivable mistake, and inventing several new ones, I have concluded that the following is necessary for me to be able to shoot accurately:

1.  Proper body allignment, such as illustrated by Terry's clock.

2.  Proper back tension, such as discussed by Rod Jenkins in MBB III.

3.  A surprise release, such as taught by Rick Welch, Rod Jenkins, and others, where there is no conscious opening of the fingers to release the arrow.

All the other differences, aiming methods, anchors, etc., taught by people are just refinements of the basic theme, which might work better for some people than others.  But the three items above seem common to any method of accurate shooting.

[Old York]

"...base of your thumb touching your upper lip".

I tried that sitting here at computer, my draw length shorten by about four inches. Am I missing something here?  :confused:

[K. Mogensen]

Nope. You got it right. He says that the "short draw" is accuracy x10. It utilizes Forward of center for a higher impact. It does shorten your draw quite a bit though.

[reddogge]

That would turn a 50# bow into a 38# bow.  Wacky concept to me.  I'd rather have a full draw myself.

[twitchstick]

Now I have not read this book but I do shoot in the very similar manner. But what McDave is saying is very true,they must be done to shoot accuraltey. I shoot instinctively for years before I switched over to shooting what I think is called "barebow" style. Becuse for longer yardages I walk my face. It was very tough for me at frist. It took mounths before I could shoot well in this fashion. It may just take time to get use to the anchor and shooting three under . I put my thumb in the corner of my ear index finger at the base of cheak bone. Thats were my anchor fills good yours may be differant. My "piont on" is right at 20 yards. My release is a surprise and will go off when I reach back tenson. If I quick release my  fingers I usally pluck the string and I drop my front shoulder and will hit right. I still shoot in both ways,and for hunting at times in combo, but I have achived great accuracy in this method.I hope this wasn't to wordy but this is what works for me. P.S shoot a thousand arrows that way and see what happens.

[zetabow]

I use the pre-draw aim but use normal anchor, I had TP issues 10 years ago and it helped give me a little more confidence, it’s not the best way to aim as I think it’s a little vague and main purpose for me using this now is getting good body alignment and I like it because once at full draw and zoning in with Instinct\\Split-vision I don’t have to adjust my aim much.

I don’t Bowhunt but imagine this method could be useful as minimal movement is required to get to Anchor.

[AllenR]

Where can I find this book?

Thanks,

[K. Mogensen]

http://www.kustomkingarchery.com/Point-Of-Aim-Barebow-Shooting-Method_Manual/productinfo/2001/

That's the link. Thanks for all the replies guys.

[K. Mogensen]

Originally posted by reddogge:
That would turn a 50# bow into a 38# bow.  Wacky concept to me.  I'd rather have a full draw myself.

It seemed weird to me too.

[zetabow]

looked at link I wouldn't say it's 'NEW' as I've been doing it for 10 years and seen others doing same thing before me. Like I said not keen on the short draw part and use normal anchor as I shoot Longbow in IFAA out to 80 yards.

4" groups at 20 yards would make you a world champ at IFAA 300 indoor round (I only managed 3rd place at 07 IFAA world indoors lol)

I agree it does help get tighter, more consistent groups but I think this is more because of better and more controlled body alignment and not really to do with better aiming. The other factor to consider with short drawing the Bow if your overbowed and you've turned you 50# into a 38# you will likely improve accuracy because you have more control.

Interesting post 'Im Not Ted'

[K. Mogensen]

After working with this for a couple days, I have found that I am fairly accurate to about 15 yards still. I can be accurate out to farther distances but with my 45# bow, I'm aiming for the sky past 30 yards. Ir's still not very comfortable which could be part of the problem but for now, I'm gonna stick with instinctive and work on this method in my spare time.

I have to say though, this method did help me greatly with one major thing. Before with my instinctive shooting and split finger draw, I wasn't much better. Grouping out to only 15 yards or so and getting a lucky group at 20 every once in a while. Well, after reading on some of the benefits of 3 under (or Apache) draw, I switched over and holy smokes! Accuracy has increased a lot! I was grouping roughly in a paper plate sized area at 40 YARDS! No joke. It was the best accuracy I've seen since I started. So even if I don't use the POA method, I will at least be shooting 3 under.

Thanks all!

[AKCrazyhorse]

I have a problem with consistently shooting left.  I thought perhaps it was a eye dominance issue.  I started drawing back to the center of my face and then I let the string slip down the side of my nose as I continue to pull to anchor in the corner of my mouth.  Perhaps doing this has re-alinged my head better or something but the left misses have completely disappeared.  I no longer even consider missing to one side or the other.

[Smallwood]

I have read it, and in my opinion, it shortens your draw too much, puts your body out of alignment, and encourgages you to shoot too quickly which would/could lead to target panic.

[mahantango]

I shoot simular to this method, however, I continue my draw (splitfinger) until my index finger with the arrow nock right below it touches just below my bottom eyelid and my cocked thumb hooks around the back of my cheekbone. It's a very solid, repeatable bone on bone spotweld just like good rifle shooting. My draw length is the same 27.5" as a corner of mouth anchor, but the high anchor gives me a 20yd point on. This works well for my face structure/hand size and allows good back tension and alignment, but everyone is built different and you have to work out what works for YOU.

[Over&Under]

Originally posted by Smallwood:
I have read it, and in my opinion, it shortens your draw too much, puts your body out of alignment, and encourgages you to shoot too quickly which would/could lead to target panic.

I was thinking the same thing Sammy, shooting too fast is what got my TP started.

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

Originally posted by over&under:
 

Originally posted by Smallwood:
I have read it, and in my opinion, it shortens your draw too much, puts your body out of alignment, and encourgages you to shoot too quickly which would/could lead to target panic.

I was thinking the same thing Sammy, shooting too fast is what got my TP started. [/b]

I was actually thinking it sounded like a person who developed TP and, instead of correcting the problem, came up with a strange way to shoot with it. I've seen a lot of people with TP who like that, but never a good one.

[Terry Green]

What Jason said....exactly.

And, there's no way that method is more accurate in hunting scenarios.

[K. Mogensen]

Yeah, after shooting with it for a little longer, I've tossed it out the window. There's parts of it that helped but I'm still shooting instinctively. It's just more accurate. The author states that most people begin shooting better groups within 5 minutes of learning it. Well, it's been 2 months and I can't group past 15 still. Even at <10 yards I group better with instinctive. He claims that instinctive requires too much concentration on "the spot" but that hasn't been a problem for me.

[kentowl]

For those interested in "Pre-Draw" Gap Aiming; at a used bookstore recently I browsed a "Handbook of Field Archery" published in 1963. This book pushed "Pre-Draw" gapping as a way of teaching beginners. The supposed benefit pre-draw is that the gap between target and arrow tip is smaller, and varies only slightly from short ranges out to about 35 yards. The obvious drawback is that it takes a very rigid bow arm to maintain position during draw, and/or a very weak/learners' bow. Sorry to say didn't buy the book ($6), but it appears this "new" method was practiced 50 years ago.