excessive wear to sideplate

[Doc Pain]

I'm getting what I feel is excessive wear to the sideplate on my arrow shelf.  Also occasionally a little slapping sound.  The arrow has just a little fishtailing the first 5 feet or so but corrects fairly quick.  By the time it enters the target at 5 yards, the arrow is straight and the nock is pointing straight back at me. Is this a sign of spine error or operator error?  Even with a very loose grip I still have the same result, so I do not think that I am torqueing the bow upon release.  If it is spine, should I go stiffer or weaker?  Any and all suggestions appreciated.

[Ragnarok Forge]

It is a spine problem and it would appear you are to stiff on the spine.  A properly flexing arrow will have the fletching arc'd away from the riser as it passes by the riser on the your bow.  A spine stiff arrow will have the fletching end of the arrow bent towards the riser as it passes.  If you are getting hits ( slaps ) on the riser you are way stiff.  Throw some extra weight on the front and see what happens.  By extra weight, I would be adding 50 grains to 100 grains up front.  It may correct the problem.  Otherwise by a weaker spined arrow.

[moebow]

Really need more details Doc.  Bow weight and arrow spine and length.  This can also be caused by too low of a brace height.  A low brace height will hold the arrow to the centerline of the bow longer and it doesn't have time to flex out of the way.

[Bill Skinner]

Raise your brace height until you get to the bows'max brace height.  If you still have contact, then start adding weight.  Bill

[Doc Pain]

I raised the brace height in 1/8" increments.  I ended up 1/8" past the recommended max height, but it helped straighten out the arrow plus made the bow quieter.  I am shooting a three piece longbow 50# at 27 inches.  I have scaled it so I know that the weight is true.  I had a bunch of 2114 XX75 shafts and cut some to 27 1/2".  Do you think that they would be too stiff or could I put enough weight up front to make them work?  If not, what would you recommend.

[moebow]

Yep,  I'd say too stiff!  Try a 1916 or at most a 2016.  Your 2114s will need LOTS of point weight -- like maybe a small anvil?

Doc - Most of my 50 pound range bows like 1916s and 2016s and I draw 29.5.  With your shorter draw length I'd think 1916s are your starting point for Aluminum arrows.

[Doc Pain]

moebow,
  What do you think would be a good place to start with carbon.  If I'm gonna have to start over with new arrows, I think that carbon would be the way to go.

[moebow]

Doc,  I'll defer to others here on the forum about carbons.  I've NEVER had a good experience with them and will not use them.  Others are very happy with carbons and could advise you much better than I.  I like wood and aluminums as that is what I've used since high school in the early 60's.  I fall into the "old dog, new tricks" category.

That said, 1916s have a .623 published spine deflection rating and a 10 grain per inch weight.  2016s are .531 and 10.6 grains per inch.  Carbon has a different recovery rate than wood or aluminum but some where in that range ought to get you in the ballpark.