regular tiller, shooting 3 under

[The Butcher]

I bought a BW PLX last fall.  I feel really comfortable shooting 3 under.  Bare shaft tuned (with fieldpoint), and a 28" 2117, flew straight out to 15 yds, grooping with the other arrows, and no kick.  I fletched up a couple, and with broadheads, had terrible arrow flight.  A couple of other people told me that the tiller was not that big of a deal, just to nock a little higher.  Still poor arrow flight. I was able to get a couple of 2016's and 125gr Magnus heads to shoot well.  I'm ready to sell the bow, and buy the same bow, tillered for 3 under.  Is this necessary?  Someone please give me the real scoop.  Thanks Don

[Longbow338]

How high is your nock point and are you shooting a double nock set.  Tiller is not that important have shot many bows tillered split;  3 under and have noticed no difference other than nock height.  So i do not think that is your problem.

[Longbow338]

Also you might want to extend your bare shaft distance i usually do mine to at least 30 yards and remember adding feathers will stiffen your shafts so i prefer a slightly weak bare shaft.

[dragon rider]

Buying a bow tillered for three under is not necessary.  Move your nock point up and use a double nock set.  Your arrow flight problem sounds more like an arrow spine issue than a tillering issue.  If the tiller was off you should still be consistent, just not where you want to be.

[Mike Brockner]

Don,

Dont be afraid to raise your nock height alot.  The top of my bottom nock is 9/16 which is where the bottom of my arrow nock sits.  You will see feather wear if the nock point is to low.  Another thing, brace height will affect how much the bow vibrates when you shoot it, adjust the brace height for smothness and noise.

FYI, Guys that walk the string never had a problem with tillering, they could slide down the string and still shoot good.

Hope this helps.

Mike

[Earthdog]

I shoot all my bows 3under,none of them are tillered for it.

My nock set for three under is "at lest" the thickness of my index finger above where the nock would be for split.

Just keep pushing it higher until you hit the right spot,,you can go a long way before it adversly affects arrow flight.

[The Butcher]

Thanks guys, I'll mess with it some more.  I am shooting a double nock set.  My bow is #51 @ my 27" draw length.  Any advice on where to start with arrows?  Really want to stay with aluminums, I like the Easton Classics.  I'm finding it is like hand loading.  work your way up, and only change one variable at a time.

[Paul WA]

My LB is standard positive tiller and my arrow sits right at the top of the 1/8" line on my square.

[Gregg S]

2117 seems like it would be a bit too stiff. I've shot 52# at 29" of draw using a 30" 2016 arrow with 125 gr. pt. Out of a longbow. Always had very good flight. I had some 2117's left over from my compound days but even at my 29" draw they were too stiff. Try some 2016's but try using 145 gr. pt. At 27" draw that may work better for you.

[kevsuperg]

try this   http://heilakka.com/stumiller/  just punch in your variables and you should be in the ballpark. put me right on with 30.5" 3355 goldtips 46# @ 28" bear alaskan recurve

[jeff vess]

I agree seems like a 2117 would b a little stiff. I've shot 3 fingers under for over 12 years and shot dozens of different bows and none have them have been tillered for 3 under and they all shot fine.

[jeff vess]

I agree seems like a 2117 would b a little stiff. I've shot 3 fingers under for over 12 years and shot dozens of different bows and none have them have been tillered for 3 under and they all shot fine.

[The Butcher]

Thanks for all the tips, and will give them a try.