Could this be too stiff?

[Rossco7002]

Having applied some of the helpful pointers I gleened from Tradgang and working hard to develop a 'system' to ensure my shot routine is consistent I can happily say that my accuracy is really improving.

One thing that I can't seem to shake is my arrows grouping to the left (I shoot right handed). This isn't by a huge amount at short distances but it's definately a pattern and I'd definately like to get rid of it.

My current set up is as follows: 60" Toelke Whip longbow 49lbs at my draw of 26 inches. Brace height currently 7 1/4 It is cut to centre + the thickness of my strike plate. My arrows are Beman MFX 500's cut to 28.5" with 75 gr. insert + 125 gr points.

This evening I was shooting some really good groups but the slight missing left was there (as always). This has been the case since I got my bow last year. So I started experimenting. I added 50gr to my point weight and completely removed my strike plate. End result was that the arrows were brought much more inline with centre (although still not perfect).

Now my original set up shows a just about perfect match when I run it through the spine calculator but with the extra weight at the front of the arrow I'm showing 10lbs weak!

Any thoughts or similar experiences out there?

[mrjsl]

I have been messing with Carbon arrows this summer, and am waiting on some heavier points to come in.

However, I can tell you that right now my bareshafts show too stiff, like you I am hitting just slightly to the left w/ most every arrow. I am close to having the arrows tuned, though, and right now, they show 10 pouunds too weak on the calculator.

I'm of the opinion that your arrows are too stiff.  You might try a 175 or 200 grain tip and see what happens, or, and I think a better solution, try something in the .600 spine range.

[LinemanARK]

were can i look at this calculator at I shoot a 45 pound wing archery recurve at 28"s I am very new to trad archery please help been working on compounds for a couple years so I know a little but would like to learn alot more about trad archery any input would be great Mike

[Buckeye Trad Hunter]

Here's a link to the spine calculator.
 http://heilakka.com/stumiller/

Your set-up shows right on the money with the spine calculator if you have a b50 string and actually a little weak if you have a fast flight string.

Try shooting 3 arrows with fletching and 3 bare shaft and see how they group.  If they group together it's not the arrows.  

Here's a link to the O.L. Adcock tuning method.  There's some good info here.
 http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

[Rossco7002]

This is kinda cool, I THINK I've solved this one!

I spoke to Dan Toelke the other day about my shooting. Before going further I cannot give him enough praise as a bowyer - fantastic product and ALWAYS willing to discuss issues unrelated to his bows (i.e. my poor shooting LOL). His theory was that somewhere in the last 10% of my draw I'm 'falling into the bow' or looking for 'the liars line'. Basically after setting my head to the target I'm then drawing and easing my head onto the arrow like you would a rifle stock. He advised that I keep my head square onto the target until I see the arrow hit.

Tried this out and sure enough I was hitting dead centre and completely eliminated those annoying far left flyers.

Once I bedded this new routine in I bareshafted some arrows. My original set up showed just a tad weak (i.e. perfect for fletching) and the arrows with the 175gr point ended up being way too weak.
I CANNOT DESCRIBE HOW GREAT IT FELT TO HAVE THIS PROBLEM LICKED!!!!
 
End result was I shot my best 300 round ever and have (finally) achieved confidence in my set up.

Thanks everyone for their advice (especially Dan Toelke)!!!

[weedwacker]

Originally posted by Jim Casto Jr:
I'm of the opinion that your arrows are too stiff.  You might try a 175 or 200 grain tip and see what happens, or, and I think a better solution, try something in the .600 spine range.

Good advice.  That should tell you real quick!