Critique please good or bad Part II

[Erick S]

Okay, so after the advice I received from you guys and doing more reading I have changed a few things.
1. New anchor point changed it from the corner of my mouth to my check bone. This helped align my shoulder getting my elbow back a little more, it's not yet at 6 o'clock but better.
2. I made a Formaster and it seemed to help. (I think)
3. Built a new target, this allowed me to shot blind bale and get my aim point higher. Also, I have four different spots to shoot at, allowing for one arrow one target shooting. This has helped because now I am not chasing my arrows after every shoot.

Things that I noticed I was doing wrong
1. Even blind bale I am still having a hard time getting the same anchor point every time.
2. A little movement in the bow before the shoot.
3. Not getting the back tension 100% of the time, I still noticed that in a few of the shoots I had a dead release.

Overall I think I am teachable after all.

Here are the newest video's for your critique. I hope it works this time.

   

   

     

Erick

[moebow]

Very nice changes and improvement for the first set of videos Erick!

There are some things that need work and if you can get to a good coach it will be much easier than trying to interpret the written word.  But I'll give it a shot.

1.  Your anchor is now so far back on your face that your arrow nock and string are to the right of your eye and line of sight.  This will cause you to make aiming adjustments to the right -- not necessary.  If you watch yourself in the mirror - no bow necessary - take the pose of shooting.  Place your string hand into the corner of the mouth so an imaginary arrow would be straight below your eye.  Now - without moving your hand - push your chest out - another way to say this would be to pull your string arm shoulder back.  If you are face on to the mirror, you will see your string arm elbow and shoulder disappear behind your torso by opening your string shoulder.  YOU SHOULD NOT CHANGE THE POSITION OF YOUR HAND ON YOUR FACE!!!!!  Your current anchor does not have a definitive spot to reference on so you feel that you have trouble with the "same anchor". There's just a large area of smooth bone.

2.Your bow hand is still too deep into the bow.  Look at your bow hand thumb knuckle (the second knuckle).  See how far on the right side of the bow it is?  that knuckle needs to be JUST BARELY on the right side of the center line of the bow grip!  And the heel of your hand (where the life line ends at the wrist) should be to the left of the grip and NOT touching the grip.  The center of the grip should run from the web between the index finger and the thumb down the base of your thumb in the direction of the pulse point in your wrist, not the heel of your hand.  The bow hand is the only part of your body that can affect the shot both before AND AFTER release.  It is really important to get it right.

3.  Actually, your back tension looks pretty good.  Watch in your videos and you will see pretty good hand motion on release and your bow jumps toward the target and slightly to your left -- JUST AS IT SHOULD.

As I said at the start, a coach that understands the system will be able to show you in 10 or 15 minutes what and how you can correct these things.  You are obviously "teachable" and a quick study.  You've made tremendous strides!  Remember not to get down on yourself and to have fun doing this.

[Wapiti Bowman]

Eric,

I have to agree with MB. You've really progressed quite nicely, remarkably so, considering you're translating a long sequence of physical skills from the written word, and getting 90+% of it right.

Also, MB has covered all the major points that I can see on your video; however, I'll try to elaborate on a couple of the tips he gave you.

When standing in front of a mirror, face on, in your simulated, full draw position, actually use an arrow. Rest the point in the groove between your index finger and thumb of your bow hand, and the nock on the index finger of your drawing hand. (It's a bit easier for a 'split finger shooter as the nock goes between the fingers.) Now, go to your anchor point position. You should be able to see right down the shaft, and watch the arrow in the mirror disappear as you raise the arrow to point on. You'll be able to see only the point and the cock feather if you have an anchor point properly aligned with your aiming/dominant eye.

Now for your bow hand: As MB has pointed out, you have rolled your hand around the bow so far to the right (counter clockwise) that I'm surprised you're not hitting your bow arm with the string. What we 'aim' for, pun intended, is to support that draw wt with bone that doesn't tire and collapse, rather than with muscle that does tire and collapse. So, place the left edge of the grip along your 'life line', the line that delineates the meaty area at the base of your thumb. That will place  the grip right in that meaty area between the line at the immediate base of your thumb, the one in line with the left edge of your extended index finger, and the life line at the meaty base of your thumb.

Now, when drawing your bow, relax your bow hand,  which will go to an upright position, as if signaling "to stop" and let the draw wt of the bow actually be supported by the bones in your arm. Your relaxed fingers will loosely curl around the back of the bow grip.  

I personally use a finger sling so that I don't grip my bow at all, but that's my personal preference. The string connects to my thumb and middle finger so that I don't drop my bow with every shot execution.

A couple more items: When you're in your back properly, as all your shots appeared to be in your rear angle film clip, there is no tension any place along your arm and shoulder. The only tension is in your "hook", your fingers holding the string. The rest of your arm and shoulder should be nothing but a relaxed link connecting your "hook" to your trapezius muscle, which is holding all the draw wt.

And finally, when working on individual aspects of your form, i.e., anchor point, or bow hand tension, work as you are, close to the bale, but with your eyes closed.

BTW, I don't get into my back 100% of the time either. That's the goal for which we strive, and it's a constant battle, for me.

Good Luck. Keep up the Good Work, and foremost, Remember to keep it Fun!  

[Larry m]

Nice online coaching segment here and apparently very helpful. Eric, I like your bow racks and target setup. Very Nice........

[Terry Green]

The most accurate shooting platform is the one that is most stable.  

Might want to incorporate a double anchor to get a consistent anchor and proper alignment....with proper alignment your bow hand wont move left or right, or up or down...but only toward the target.  Proper alignment directs all your energy directly toward and away from the target....solving a multitude of problems, and basically takes windage out of the equation.

I also do see a little mental involvement on some shots like you are doubting yourself, double clutching, or are unsure.  It almost looks as though you are either having those moments or you are over bowed.  Only you can tell.

If its mental ....the doubting should go away when you get it all grooved in and gain confidence.  If you are overbowed, you are paddling upstream.

Stay after it, and like the others said....have fun!