Is it better not to "pull through" when learning.

[BigCountryOK]

So I'm getting back into the trad game by shooting an old bear 45# recurve.

I shoot about 30 arrows a day from 5-6 yards and I'm focusing on form.

I found that if I try to pull through my anchor points and release I wind up releasing early and plucking the string.

I've now developed a routine where I actually say, anchor 1 (index finger to corner of mouth) anchor 2 (thumb knuckle under ear and pause), focus focus focus ( burning a hole in the dime size spot I want to hit) and then I release. (I don't ease the string forward, I put a little more tention on the string and roll my fingers back)

I've read that its best to pull through but right now I just can't do it consistently.  I figure that as my steps become more instinctive that I will learn to pull through.

Am I on the right track here or should I be learning to pull through from the start?

[moebow]

BigCountryOK,
Here is what I would recommend if I was working with you.
 "I've now developed a routine where I actually say, anchor 1 (index finger to corner of mouth) anchor 2 (thumb knuckle under ear and pause)"

Use this routine but FORGET focus and trying to hit anything for a while!  Get to your anchor, concentrate on the feel of holding at anchor then RELAX your fingers (don't roll them off the string as you say.  If you relax those fingers as you concentrate on pulling with your back you will "pull through" the shot.  Relaxing the fingers will let the string push your fingers out of the way without you thinking about rolling your fingers.

You ARE on the right track but trying to hit anything interferes with getting this right.  Get the motion of the shot first then hitting something will be easier and actually come faster than trying to combine Shot mechanics and hitting a target.  Be patient and work ONLY on this for a while (like 20 practice sessions).  If you work this way you will get there faster even though it will feel like the long way around the barn.

Good luck and have fun.

[BigCountryOK]

Thanks for the info.  Would a form master be good to use for trying this?  

I only have a regular block target and at this point don't have a large backstop to shoot into.

I have plenty of time so I'm willing to take it slow.  My goal is to be proficient enough with the longbow my dad made to be ready for deer season next year.

[moebow]

A form master would be EXCELLENT!!!!  Can be used for both learning to draw with good back tension and actually releasing an arrow.  Releasing an arrow with the form master on will lead to "pulling through" correctly.  Highly recommended!  Home made instructions available elsewhere on this site.

If you can, get that Block target up at shoulder level so you are pulling with your bow arm and shoulders level with the ground -- stay very close for a while.

Next year's hunting season is a great goal for timing of this project.  By the way, the Form Master MAY show you that you are over bowed at first.  If you determine that you need to, find a light bow to start, Not higher than the 30# range. And the FM is NOT recommended for anything over 60# just FYI.

[NJWoodsman]

It sounds like you need a conclusion cue, so you can develop a subconscious release.

"Anchor" is really just a consistent reference point, like a rear sight. Draw to this point, but never stop pulling. This must be a state where you do not collapse, which is what will happen if you just let go without maintaining back tension. The release is a non-event, it's not something you work on. I use a shoulder touch as a cue.

[BigCountryOK]

MoeBow- thanks I'm going to make one today and get started.

NJ Woodsman - So you're saying that the release should just be part of the flow of drawing the bow and the conclusion is the follow through.  (Fingers on shoulder, bow arm still in place)

I think I understand that, but I've learned in the past that I tend to get target panic if I don't make a concious thought of release. Does this go away over time or am I looking at this the wrong way.

[House]

I struggled with that myself (for quite some time)and the answer is yes, it will get better and dissipate over time.  Once I was able to get the whole shot sequence working together and got over the "uncertainty" at the moment of execution...it was like magic.  Stick with it and listen to Moebow and you are well on your way to a lifetime of enjoyment shooting.

Good Luck to You!

Travis

[Ragnarok Forge]

The release should not be triggered by conscious thought at all.  Once you start expanding your fingers reach a point where they simply can no longer hold onto the string.  The string release should be just happen and be a suprise. You want to start with all pieces of the form happening.  It is very hard to train in a new habit over old ones.

[McDave]

I agree with Clay.  The release should not be consciously initiated.

According to Rick Welch, you should hold at full draw until the release happens, which will hopefully happen about 2 seconds into your hold.

According to Rod Jenkins, you should slowly increase back tension at full draw until the release happens, which will promote a dynamic release, such that your drawing hand recoils back and ends up on your neck or shoulder.

Rod's method works best for me, but YMMV.

[S.C. Hunter]

Moebow, you may just be right. I recently had a little struggle myself. I did just what you said. I just focused on the anchor and simply relaxed my fingers all while pulling with my back. I got in a habit of peeking and not holding my bow arm steady. I have made a good recovery. I was really having a hard time with my follow through. I have always shot fast and just got sloppy. It was strange because I have always shot pretty well, I guess it just shows we always have to work hard on the basics.

[BigCountryOK]

I made a form master and tried it out.  About the only thing I noticed is that it tends to slap the side of my face and I seem to get little to no feedback from my arm as far as it going out to the side ( I doubt I have my form that good at this point and was expecting a more dramatic feedback upon release.

1) Does the form master slapping my face mean my achor is too far?
2) Do I need a heavier bow to get a more pronounced feedback?

Thanks!

[moebow]

BC-OK,
1.  NO
2.  NO

The connection to your bow should be just long enough for the string to clear your fingers.  Adjust it so the bow string is just in front of your extended string fingers when you have a little tension from the elbow.  Now when you draw with your fingers on the string, the cord should be below your forearm.  Come to full draw and release by relaxing your string fingers.  Your string arm elbow should NOT move forward the slightest amount!!!!  As you release, concentrate on keeping your string hand firmly on your face!! RESIST THE STRAP!!!!!!!!!

This is the feeling your should feel without the form master on the bow.  If you shoot several times with the form master on and resist the strap (ABSOLUTELY NO FORWARD MOVEMENT OF THE DRAWING ELBOW!!!!) and KEEPING YOUR HAND ON YOUR FACE!!!  The next time you shoot without the strap but mentally think "resist the strap"  you will "pull through" the shot.

Brian, as in all things, something new like this will be frustrating and feel uncomfortable for a while.  Stay with it.  Stick with the lighter bow for a while and give this a fair chance, it will work.

[BigCountryOK]

Thanks MoeBow!  As soon as this mark on my face goes away LOL  I'll try to adjust the form master and give it another shot.

In the mean time I have the block setup on a shelf in the garage and I'm focusing on devoping my form from about an arrow length away.

Thanks for everything!

Edit: I had the form master set for 1in past my fingers (when extended).  I've now adjusted it to stop at my finger tips and it works much better.

[Terry Green]

I think everyone would shoot better with a 'pull through' release.

You end up with a cleaner release, and a faster arrow....and usually leads for better alignment at release.  You will also have better arrow flight IMO, and a quieter bow.

"pull though" doesn't mean 'yank through'...its should be a totally controlled execution subconsciously. Meaning, groove it in on the bail so it happens automatically in the field.

Someone Mentioned Rod Jenkins,....watch him shoot compared to my clips...both of us 'pull through' and are in control....but he looks like he's holding....but he'll tell you he's not...he's creeping rearward even though you can't really see it.

[AllenR]

Pulling through is not something that you do.  It's a result of setting up the shot with the most stable muscles and those are in your back.  If the only muscles holding back the pull of the string are your back muscles, the pull through or follow through will happen while you are focusing on what you want to hit.

Sorry that I'm not a good enough writer to explain this too well.

It's a pretty fine point between making something happen and letting it happen, but it is important to a good shot.  

There should be two parts to every shot.  The first part is drawing and setting up the right muscles and alignment and is done consciously (at least at first).  The second part of the shot is total focus on what you want to hit and the back end of the shot runs subconsciously.  The only way to do that is to set is up before you begin aiming.

If you watch some of the faster shooters, like Terry, you will see the setup doesn't have to take a lot of time. But it has to be done the same way every time. And once you practice doing it the same way a few thousand times, it will become a subconscious process.  

But the critical thing is to get the alignment, anchors and holding set up the same every time so that the result is a consistent follow through.

I hope I haven't confused any one, wish I was a better writer to explain this stuff.

Allen

[Terry Green]

Yeah Allan...and as another reminder....the pull through is not just rearward...but rearward and around.....with the final creep being more of the curve than the line back.