Having tried with varying weighted carbons and with varying distribution of weights it seemed, the best FOC’s appeared to be 8-12%, for the spine I had in relation to the draw weight. What TG says, check out his form clock, this helped me a lot in conjunction with good flight and practice seemed to give the best accuracy. Loading up with weight is all good, if there is power to propel. There also seemed a big loss of trajectory after 20-25yds with more weight and much said about the importance of Grain weight /lb. But just adding more weight up front also requires adjustment in spine as well. There is a lot of informative consensus regard this available in regular reads on Powwow.
Rob mentioned something in a thread the other day on Powwow “ in terms of efficiency of stick bow with regards to performance/speed, typically the hierarchy follows this suit - recurve, aggressive r/d longbow, mild r/d longbow, straight (hill style) longbow. Also, typically as performance/speed increases, 'stability' decreases”
Going to woods and longbows, is another learning curve, so FOC seems to be more of a consideration for my purposes than grain weight when building a good arrow. There is very slight increase in FOC from point weight with my field tipped arrows,tho spine remains constant, when experimenting with 125-160gn points. There is a slight increase with BH weight but the flight effect of the BH seems to negate any change, FOC is hardly altered. All the arrows coming out 8.5-11% FOC. Giving good accurate flight over varying ranges. I have a preference for the lighter points and BH's @ 170gn just now.
When changing draw weight up by 10# or more and depending on if it's a recurve or long bow, a higher spine is selected but keeping the same field point/BH formula all to good effect.
Dr Ashby has a lot of info on high FOC, EFOC, point weight and fletch size etc., which I mostly grasp and understand from this there seems to limit to optimal distance of shot. As opposed to theoretical and 3D distance with lesser FOC’s. I have some more Q's for him too. And as yet have not experimented much this way as I want to secure a sound base where I am now. It’s a terrific read and u’ll perceive better u’rself what u’ll need to gleam from it. Also arrow tuning for what u have now may be worth looking into.
With regard to tight grip I noticed on advice it was important, when learning to shoot left handed it seemed to give better stability and lateral control of the bow in this off hand, something akin to those small control movements in the right hand that its more attuned to. Over time I still notice a more secure grip with this off hand comparatively, maybe this has something to do with u’r transition over from wheels.