I do a lot of tinkering.
I shoot right handed bows. If the arrow is properly spined and shoots slightly left for me at 20 yards with a point weight suggested by Stu Miller's DSC program, that normally indicates the arrow is slightly stiff (overspined). To make the arrow go to the right, I can add more point weight and I do this by using 5 grain brass weight washers behind my field points that 3Rivers sells in 11/32" and 5/16" sizes. I can add up to five brass weight washers behind the field point so this basically adds up to 25 more grains of point weight. Since I'm shooting 2212 aluminum arrows, I use 11/32" washers.
Another trick to make the arrow move to the right, if you like your point weight and don't want to change it, is to lower the brace height by a half turn twist (180 degrees). Then shoot about a dozen arrows at 20 yards to see if the arrow is moving over to the right. If it is, but not enough, I lower the brace height again by another half turn twist and take another dozen shots.
The rule of thumb for a stiff arrow to make it move to the right, if you don't want to add more point weight, is to raise the brace height, but that doesn't work for me with my two Blacktails. If I do that, without changing the original point weight, the arrow moves "further" to the right than when I first started.