Arrow Kicking Up on Release

[nlester]

I have a longbow I'm shooting that is 57# @ 28.  I'm shooting GT 5575's.  I also shoot 3 Under.  The bow shoots great and the arrow goes right where I point it.  However, on release the arrow kicks up on the back end on release, it straightens out and hits the mark, but that arrow kicking up seems a waste of energy if that makes sense.  Could it be my nock point is too low and it kicks my arrow up going across the rest?  I've heard that my nock needs to be higher with 3 Under.  I shot it split and got better flight.  I like the bow, just want more of a true flight of my arrow.  Any suggestions would be great.  Thanks

Yes sir, definitely taking performance away.  Where do you have it set now?  An arrow can kick upward for several reasons; clearance, nock high, nock low, etc.

[nlester]

I'd say its set up for split.  That's my guess.  Its probably set up with a bow square.

[moebow]

It sounds like your nock point was set by someone else.  How high it is set depends on you not someone else's setting.  It won't matter if it's three under or split, your style of shooting and release is what will determine the nock point height.  You need to shoot and move the point up and down until you find "the good" place for you.

[nlester]

Thanks guys, that's what I'll do.  Appreciate the help

[stringstretcher]

Three under will definately need a higher nocking point.

[nlester]

Changed the nock point and fixed that....now my problem is the arrows kick left upon release.  I've read that the arrow is underspined when it does that, correct?  I'm shooting a 57# bow, with 5575 arrows....shouldn't that be about right?  I had a 5575 that was shorter than my hunting arrows and it shot great.

Mabe not.  Depends of how much your riser is cut from center and how near your arrows are to proper spine.  My initial thought would be that a 55/75 cut to 28" would be too stiff.

[nlester]

I would've thought so too.  What I don't understand is that I have a selfbow that is in the upper 40lb range and I shoot the same 5575's out of it too and they fly great.  Could me, as an individual, contribute to the need for stiffer arrows???

That's why some of us are bald-we've pulled our hair out.  :^)

The very quickest way for me to detmine spine and nocking point is to bare shaft group tune at about 12 yards.  Shoot about 3 arrows and 2 bare shafts.  You'll find out in short-order what they're doing.

[nlester]

LOL.  Thanks for all the help

[mahantango]

Carbons are very sensitive to shaft length. 1/4" can make a huge difference. I shoot 55/75 cut to 29 1/2" out of a couple bows in the 55#-58# range, but with a total of 275gr. up front. A lot depends on the degree of center-shot as well. I'll second the bare shaft recommendation.

[58WINTERS]

Check brace height. Is the string driving the fletching into the shelf??

[briandean]

Here's something that doesn't make sense to me, but worked. My arrows spiralled and didn't fly completely straight. I wasn't paying attention and shot one cock fletch in - straight!. So, I changed to cock fletch in - problem solved. May work for you - worth a try.

[Javi]

Originally posted by briandean:
Here's something that doesn't make sense to me, but worked. My arrows spiralled and didn't fly completely straight. I wasn't paying attention and shot one cock fletch in - straight!. So, I changed to cock fletch in - problem solved. May work for you - worth a try.

Not always but very nearly always when I see this it is an indication of a slightly stiff spined arrow.. Try adding about 40 grains and see if it doesn't change for the better..