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Author Topic: split vs 3 under  (Read 876 times)

Offline surething

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split vs 3 under
« on: July 14, 2013, 09:17:00 AM »
I.ve been shooting for many years
, and I could always switch from split too 3 under with the same nock setting 5/8th, well the other day I was out shooting bareshafts, and and decided I'd shoot some 3 under ,well when shooting 3 under all my shafts were shooting weak, I was shooting a pch widow 46# @ 28 and draw 29, arrows at 29 3/4" shoot like darts split.
arrows are 5575 gt xt camo 200  grain tip, wrap and 3- 5" feathers, arrow right at 500 gr.
has anyone evry had this happen too them , just curious, thanks surething.

Offline surething

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Re: split vs 3 under
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2013, 09:20:00 AM »
Oh forgot too mention when bare shaft shooting I was shooting with the wraps, which I know would make the arrow slightly stiffer.

Offline NBK

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Re: split vs 3 under
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2013, 11:13:00 PM »
I'd bet that your arrows are actually too stiff and giving you a false weak by contacting the riser.  Dust your riser above the shelf with some baby powder, or rub some white deoderant and check for contact.  Your GT's are 400 spine.  I draw close to you with 400 spine cut to 30 with 300 gr. up front out of 50+ pound bows and they still can be a bit stiff.  Switching from split to 3 under can affect spine (don't remember stiff or weak), but first I'd check your arrows.  Hope this helps.
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Offline bwsandite

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Re: split vs 3 under
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2013, 11:16:00 AM »
Personally my draw length went from 27 to 28 inches when I started shooting 3 fingers under. Could make your arrows under spined.
Bennie

Offline jonsimoneau

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Re: split vs 3 under
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2013, 10:23:00 PM »
How far away from the target are you bareshafting? I think it is almost worthless to bareshaft past 10 feet since if your arrow is underspined or overspined it will wag back and forth until it hits the target, and the reading will be based on how far away you are from the target.  I want to know what the arrow is doing when it leaves the bow, since in my opinion, this is the most accurate way to see what is really happening.  For example, I can take a bareshaft that I KNOW is too weak and shoot it from various distances until I hit that spot where it will give me a stiff reading everytime.  But if I stand 10 paces from the target it will read weak everytime.

Offline reddogge

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Re: split vs 3 under
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2013, 10:29:00 PM »
jon, maybe I get a different reaction but when bareshafting either 10 yards or 30 yards my shafts fly with either a right or left attitude ALL the way to the target if over or under spined. In other words I don't need them to hit the target to see if they are nock right or left because I watch them fly towards the target. They don't wag back and forth either. Anyone else have similar flight?
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Offline xtrema312

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Re: split vs 3 under
« Reply #6 on: August 18, 2013, 06:05:00 PM »
From my experience I think maybe you are too stiff with that arrow.  I had the same weight PCH with 29" draw, and that would have been too stiff an arrow for me for sure.  False weak could be the issue.  

I  find that my release is not the same between 3 under and split.  Typically my 3 under shot shows stiffer.  I think I get off the string cleaner 3 under so the split shot gets a little pluck that causes it to kick out a little more.  If this is the case for you.  You could be seeing the 3 under shoot stiffer, but it is then pushing off the riser to create what looks like weaker.  

I also switch some and can shoot the same nock height, about 5/8".  But if you are a hire too low with your nock you can track on the edge of your shelf material causing the 3 under shot to show weaker than the split shot.  You can try a little white electrical tape over you shelf edge and shelf material or something like it to see if your are rubbing down on the edge of the shelf material.  Make sure you have a bottom nock set so your arrow doesn’t slide down.  

Probably the best way to see what is going on is to just load up the point weight another 50-75 grains and see what happens with that.
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Offline Caughtandhobble

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Re: split vs 3 under
« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2013, 10:59:00 AM »
In my experience 3 under does require a little more spine for me.

I just ran your numbers and it looks like your arrows are slightly, very slightly under spined. Like mentioned above, you may be getting a little more draw length than normal.

Offline Mr. fingers

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Re: split vs 3 under
« Reply #8 on: December 10, 2013, 06:58:00 PM »
My experience is 3 under does require a stiffer arrow. I can't explain why if its a downward pressure thing or what. When paper tuning if I get perfect bullets from 4 ft to 12 yards  shooting split . When I switch too 3 under my arrow has a weak reaction when I arrow tune for 3 under then switch to split I get  stiff reaction.

Offline tennex

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Re: split vs 3 under
« Reply #9 on: December 10, 2013, 09:58:00 PM »
I've been shooting split and just starting trying 3 under this week. At first it was all good, but then I raised the nocking point a little because I was told I needed to do that, and now they fly pointing to the left (point to the left of the fletching.)  The other thing I did was slide the no-gloves pieces together below the nocking point.

Spent a couple hours tonight trying to fix it, but no joy. Any suggestions? I'm shooting 32# at 28 with 1916 arrows 29.5 inches long with 100 grain tips.  Thanks....

Offline Craig_H

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Re: split vs 3 under
« Reply #10 on: December 11, 2013, 04:48:00 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by reddogge:
jon, maybe I get a different reaction but when bareshafting either 10 yards or 30 yards my shafts fly with either a right or left attitude ALL the way to the target if over or under spined. In other words I don't need them to hit the target to see if they are nock right or left because I watch them fly towards the target. They don't wag back and forth either. Anyone else have similar flight?
I have similar experience with flight. On a windlass day, I start of close, trying different spines/point weights/lengths. I then go back about 20 then 30 and confirm which combination is flying well. Sometimes I even go back to up to 40 yards or so. Love watching a bareshaft fly true.
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