I sent this response to Randy, though I'd post here too.
"Looks like you have a pretty good shot overall. I do see a couple things for you to consider.
Your draw is OK, but your string wrist is pretty straight. Try a few shots where you really exaggerate the wrist out. If you have seen my videos, I show the wrist in the "release tips" video. Getting that wrist out more will automatically move the string elbow around behind you farther.
www.youtube.com/user/TheMoebow1 I think this will help with the small collapse you show in the videos, you aren't quite getting to bone on bone support for the bow weight. Also, as you draw, try to point your shoulders more at the target. This isn't much movement, but think about trying to get your shoulders at least parallel to the arrow. They appear to be a little open to the target right now.
Finally, you are shooting at a target that is down on the ground. A common error folks make when doing that is to just lower the bow arm to set the sight picture. This steals the strength of the bow arm being 90 degrees to the spine and places more bow weight back into the muscles rather than on the bones. Try this: Draw as though you are going to shoot at a target on the horizon -- this sets the 90 degree angle needed. THEN, bend forward at the waist to lower your entire power unit to your aiming alignment. (Power unit is bow hand to string elbow including the shoulders) Once this is set at full draw, you need to MAINTAIN that structure for the rest of the shot!!
You will know when you have bone on bone support for the bow weight because you will feel the bones take up the weight -- kind of like the feel of the let off on a compound bow. When that happens, you will find a significant reduction in the muscle power required. At the same time your tendency to collapse will be vastly reduced.
So really 2 things to try. Get that string wrist OUT more, and keep the bow arm 90 degrees to the spine. See if that helps."
Arne